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Proper reinforcing of electrical box on drywall
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There is a 2-gang outlet/electrical box that holds plugs rather well (hair dryer, vacuum, etc). That is usually great, however when pulling the plug from the socket, the whole electrical box gets pulled and bends slightly. It always bends back after the plug is removed, though I worry that one day it will not!
Luckily, the other side of the wall is in a basement utility room, and thus exposed. It can be seen that the box is mounted with 1 screw and 1 nail, driven in to a block of wood that extends from the wall stud. Since the box is only mounted on one side, it bends on said side when pulled, especially when pulled from the GFCI outlet (right side of the last photo below, opposite of the screw+nail). I don't see how to secure it on the other side though.
How can the box be more properly secured?
Is a bit of bend typical? The box only has one mounting side, so I assume that the one side is usually enough. Still, the physics of it make me think there should be mounting options on both sides.
electrical drywall receptacle fastener
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
There is a 2-gang outlet/electrical box that holds plugs rather well (hair dryer, vacuum, etc). That is usually great, however when pulling the plug from the socket, the whole electrical box gets pulled and bends slightly. It always bends back after the plug is removed, though I worry that one day it will not!
Luckily, the other side of the wall is in a basement utility room, and thus exposed. It can be seen that the box is mounted with 1 screw and 1 nail, driven in to a block of wood that extends from the wall stud. Since the box is only mounted on one side, it bends on said side when pulled, especially when pulled from the GFCI outlet (right side of the last photo below, opposite of the screw+nail). I don't see how to secure it on the other side though.
How can the box be more properly secured?
Is a bit of bend typical? The box only has one mounting side, so I assume that the one side is usually enough. Still, the physics of it make me think there should be mounting options on both sides.
electrical drywall receptacle fastener
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
There is a 2-gang outlet/electrical box that holds plugs rather well (hair dryer, vacuum, etc). That is usually great, however when pulling the plug from the socket, the whole electrical box gets pulled and bends slightly. It always bends back after the plug is removed, though I worry that one day it will not!
Luckily, the other side of the wall is in a basement utility room, and thus exposed. It can be seen that the box is mounted with 1 screw and 1 nail, driven in to a block of wood that extends from the wall stud. Since the box is only mounted on one side, it bends on said side when pulled, especially when pulled from the GFCI outlet (right side of the last photo below, opposite of the screw+nail). I don't see how to secure it on the other side though.
How can the box be more properly secured?
Is a bit of bend typical? The box only has one mounting side, so I assume that the one side is usually enough. Still, the physics of it make me think there should be mounting options on both sides.
electrical drywall receptacle fastener
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
There is a 2-gang outlet/electrical box that holds plugs rather well (hair dryer, vacuum, etc). That is usually great, however when pulling the plug from the socket, the whole electrical box gets pulled and bends slightly. It always bends back after the plug is removed, though I worry that one day it will not!
Luckily, the other side of the wall is in a basement utility room, and thus exposed. It can be seen that the box is mounted with 1 screw and 1 nail, driven in to a block of wood that extends from the wall stud. Since the box is only mounted on one side, it bends on said side when pulled, especially when pulled from the GFCI outlet (right side of the last photo below, opposite of the screw+nail). I don't see how to secure it on the other side though.
How can the box be more properly secured?
Is a bit of bend typical? The box only has one mounting side, so I assume that the one side is usually enough. Still, the physics of it make me think there should be mounting options on both sides.
electrical drywall receptacle fastener
electrical drywall receptacle fastener
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
edited 4 hours ago
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
asked 4 hours ago
Bort
1066
1066
While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.
Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
The box should be tight to the stud. You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud.
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space.
On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4.
Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted.
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.
Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.
Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.
Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in. It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away.
Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up.
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
answered 3 hours ago
Machavity
5,6631533
5,6631533
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
+1 All good answers, but an old work box would be the quickest/easiest.
– tahwos
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
The box should be tight to the stud. You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud.
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
The box should be tight to the stud. You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud.
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
The box should be tight to the stud. You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud.
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
The box should be tight to the stud. You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud.
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
answered 3 hours ago
Ed Beal
24.5k11534
24.5k11534
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space.
On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4.
Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted.
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space.
On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4.
Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted.
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space.
On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4.
Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted.
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space.
On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4.
Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted.
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
answered 3 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,31511027
9,31511027
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
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While you have the box open you might want to flip over the left hand duplex receptacle. Normal residential installation normally has the ground on the bottom and the hot on the right. (For some reason hospitals have it opposite.)
– Jim Stewart
2 hours ago
@JimStewart - I actually prefer to have both. It allows for better options with orientating things I plug in.
– Bort
2 hours ago
Actually, it doesn't matter - but I prefer pin up, because the ground pin is less likely to get broken off.
– tahwos
2 hours ago