At what angle should an ice piton be screwed into the ice?
Clash Royale CLAN TAG #URR8PPP up vote 3 down vote favorite Recently we were climbing up a glacier with the ice at an angle of around 80ð. We were placing the ice screws (pitons) angling slightly upwards with respect to the slope of the ice wall. However, one from our team, who stays in Norway said that the screws should always be angled downwards such that the weight is taken completely by the threads of the screw and not by the ice patch surrounding the ice screw. Apparently, this is how he was taught by a guide while climbing up a frozen waterfall. For us, it felt natural to angle up the ice screws so that in case of a fall, the screw held on to the ice (similar to angling the pegs of a tent away from the tent). The claim that the weight of a fall should be taken completely by the ice screw and its threads seems a bit risky to me. So is the claim correct? What's the general practice? Does the practice vary for a waterfall climb (as damaging the ice...