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Showing posts from October 23, 2018

At what angle should an ice piton be screwed into the ice?

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Clash Royale CLAN TAG #URR8PPP up vote 3 down vote favorite Recently we were climbing up a glacier with the ice at an angle of around 80°. We were placing the ice screws (pitons) angling slightly upwards with respect to the slope of the ice wall. However, one from our team, who stays in Norway said that the screws should always be angled downwards such that the weight is taken completely by the threads of the screw and not by the ice patch surrounding the ice screw. Apparently, this is how he was taught by a guide while climbing up a frozen waterfall. For us, it felt natural to angle up the ice screws so that in case of a fall, the screw held on to the ice (similar to angling the pegs of a tent away from the tent). The claim that the weight of a fall should be taken completely by the ice screw and its threads seems a bit risky to me. So is the claim correct? What's the general practice? Does the practice vary for a waterfall climb (as damaging the ice there could po

As a reviewer, is it inappropriate to make unsolicited comments on another reviewer's comments?

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Clash Royale CLAN TAG #URR8PPP up vote 5 down vote favorite I'm reviewing a paper after minor revisions, and can partially see another reviewer's comments in the response letter. The other reviewer asks the authors to do X, but the authors argue that it's not worthwhile doing X. I've done things like X myself, and have found it not worthwhile (for the precise reasons the authors state). Thus, I strongly side with the authors on this matter, and I'm thinking about whether I should inform the editor. I'm not sure if I'm meant to do this... Question : As a reviewer, is it inappropriate to make unsolicited comments on another reviewer's comments? A related question is In peer-review, is it common for a reviewer to be shown and asked to comment on other reviewers' reports? However, I have not been asked to comment on the other reviewer's comments. peer-review share | improve this question asked 1 hour ago Rebecca J. Sto