Mixing
How to solder a 70 °C (158 °F) thermofuse
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up vote
1
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
3
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
1
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
1
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal
soldering fuses thermal
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
edited 28 mins ago
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
asked 1 hour ago
Michel Keijzers
4,93862153
4,93862153
3
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
1
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
1
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago
add a comment |Â
3
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
1
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
1
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago
3
3
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
1
1
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
1
1
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. 
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
answered 59 mins ago
Peter Bennett
35k12661
35k12661
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
add a comment |Â
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
58 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
answered 1 hour ago
Phil G
3665
3665
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
answered 1 hour ago
Transistor
75.2k572164
75.2k572164
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
add a comment |Â
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
– Michel Keijzers
56 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
48 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
answered 4 mins ago
Phil C
9461117
9461117
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
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3
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ã„εκ
1 hour ago
@Äεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago
1
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
1 hour ago
1
Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
45 mins ago
@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
28 mins ago