Rigid fork on GT Avalanche 3.0

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I'm looking into buying inexpensive rigid fork (~50 EUR) for my old GT Avalanche 3.0 (disc brakes) to make it slightly better commuter bike. My daily ride is 10km one way on asphalt surface. What should I consider when choosing a fork? What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement? Won't I make it much worse? I'm okey with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.










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  • If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
    – David Richerby
    2 hours ago














up vote
2
down vote

favorite












I'm looking into buying inexpensive rigid fork (~50 EUR) for my old GT Avalanche 3.0 (disc brakes) to make it slightly better commuter bike. My daily ride is 10km one way on asphalt surface. What should I consider when choosing a fork? What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement? Won't I make it much worse? I'm okey with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.










share|improve this question







New contributor




Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.



















  • If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
    – David Richerby
    2 hours ago












up vote
2
down vote

favorite









up vote
2
down vote

favorite











I'm looking into buying inexpensive rigid fork (~50 EUR) for my old GT Avalanche 3.0 (disc brakes) to make it slightly better commuter bike. My daily ride is 10km one way on asphalt surface. What should I consider when choosing a fork? What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement? Won't I make it much worse? I'm okey with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.










share|improve this question







New contributor




Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I'm looking into buying inexpensive rigid fork (~50 EUR) for my old GT Avalanche 3.0 (disc brakes) to make it slightly better commuter bike. My daily ride is 10km one way on asphalt surface. What should I consider when choosing a fork? What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement? Won't I make it much worse? I'm okey with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.







mountain-bike fork






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Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







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Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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asked 5 hours ago









Fedor

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1133




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Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Fedor is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











  • If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
    – David Richerby
    2 hours ago
















  • If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
    – David Richerby
    2 hours ago















If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
– David Richerby
2 hours ago




If you have knobbly tyres, you might want to consider something smoother and perhaps a little narrower.
– David Richerby
2 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

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up vote
4
down vote



accepted










To convert to a rigid fork consider



1) Fork length - to maintain head angle geometry
This depends on the travel of your existing suspension fork and the wheel size.
ie For older 26inch wheels - an 80mm Suspension fork was a 420mm rigid fork and 100mm suspension fork 440mm etc.,



2) Brake mounts - whether your disc brakes are post-mount, IS Mount or flat mount.
Adaptors can be bought to convert between them.



3) Disc rotor size - some rigid forks will have a maximum rotor size clearance.



4) Tyre clearance - though you are using it for commuting - bear in mind if you use an MTB tyre in the fork - determine the maximum tyre clearance.



5) Fork steerer length - if you are buying secondhand (especially). New forks will have an ample length of steerer to cut down. But secondhand forks, you must check and measure to make sure there is enough for your frame.



6) Fork steerer width / profile - unlikely to be anything other than a straight 1.125inch on your bike - but with tapered head-tubes you may have to change the lower crown race.






share|improve this answer




















  • Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
    – Argenti Apparatus
    4 hours ago

















up vote
0
down vote













Answering secondary questions




What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement?




You should consider replacing the headset, or at the very least servicing the bearings if they are not too worn.




Won't I make it much worse?



I'm okey [sic] with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.




If you are riding on paved surfaces you will not really need suspension and you'll appreciate the reduction in mass. I don't think you'll mess up your bike (but do make sure you get the right length fork as a different length will alter your steering geometry).






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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes








    up vote
    4
    down vote



    accepted










    To convert to a rigid fork consider



    1) Fork length - to maintain head angle geometry
    This depends on the travel of your existing suspension fork and the wheel size.
    ie For older 26inch wheels - an 80mm Suspension fork was a 420mm rigid fork and 100mm suspension fork 440mm etc.,



    2) Brake mounts - whether your disc brakes are post-mount, IS Mount or flat mount.
    Adaptors can be bought to convert between them.



    3) Disc rotor size - some rigid forks will have a maximum rotor size clearance.



    4) Tyre clearance - though you are using it for commuting - bear in mind if you use an MTB tyre in the fork - determine the maximum tyre clearance.



    5) Fork steerer length - if you are buying secondhand (especially). New forks will have an ample length of steerer to cut down. But secondhand forks, you must check and measure to make sure there is enough for your frame.



    6) Fork steerer width / profile - unlikely to be anything other than a straight 1.125inch on your bike - but with tapered head-tubes you may have to change the lower crown race.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
      – Argenti Apparatus
      4 hours ago














    up vote
    4
    down vote



    accepted










    To convert to a rigid fork consider



    1) Fork length - to maintain head angle geometry
    This depends on the travel of your existing suspension fork and the wheel size.
    ie For older 26inch wheels - an 80mm Suspension fork was a 420mm rigid fork and 100mm suspension fork 440mm etc.,



    2) Brake mounts - whether your disc brakes are post-mount, IS Mount or flat mount.
    Adaptors can be bought to convert between them.



    3) Disc rotor size - some rigid forks will have a maximum rotor size clearance.



    4) Tyre clearance - though you are using it for commuting - bear in mind if you use an MTB tyre in the fork - determine the maximum tyre clearance.



    5) Fork steerer length - if you are buying secondhand (especially). New forks will have an ample length of steerer to cut down. But secondhand forks, you must check and measure to make sure there is enough for your frame.



    6) Fork steerer width / profile - unlikely to be anything other than a straight 1.125inch on your bike - but with tapered head-tubes you may have to change the lower crown race.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
      – Argenti Apparatus
      4 hours ago












    up vote
    4
    down vote



    accepted







    up vote
    4
    down vote



    accepted






    To convert to a rigid fork consider



    1) Fork length - to maintain head angle geometry
    This depends on the travel of your existing suspension fork and the wheel size.
    ie For older 26inch wheels - an 80mm Suspension fork was a 420mm rigid fork and 100mm suspension fork 440mm etc.,



    2) Brake mounts - whether your disc brakes are post-mount, IS Mount or flat mount.
    Adaptors can be bought to convert between them.



    3) Disc rotor size - some rigid forks will have a maximum rotor size clearance.



    4) Tyre clearance - though you are using it for commuting - bear in mind if you use an MTB tyre in the fork - determine the maximum tyre clearance.



    5) Fork steerer length - if you are buying secondhand (especially). New forks will have an ample length of steerer to cut down. But secondhand forks, you must check and measure to make sure there is enough for your frame.



    6) Fork steerer width / profile - unlikely to be anything other than a straight 1.125inch on your bike - but with tapered head-tubes you may have to change the lower crown race.






    share|improve this answer












    To convert to a rigid fork consider



    1) Fork length - to maintain head angle geometry
    This depends on the travel of your existing suspension fork and the wheel size.
    ie For older 26inch wheels - an 80mm Suspension fork was a 420mm rigid fork and 100mm suspension fork 440mm etc.,



    2) Brake mounts - whether your disc brakes are post-mount, IS Mount or flat mount.
    Adaptors can be bought to convert between them.



    3) Disc rotor size - some rigid forks will have a maximum rotor size clearance.



    4) Tyre clearance - though you are using it for commuting - bear in mind if you use an MTB tyre in the fork - determine the maximum tyre clearance.



    5) Fork steerer length - if you are buying secondhand (especially). New forks will have an ample length of steerer to cut down. But secondhand forks, you must check and measure to make sure there is enough for your frame.



    6) Fork steerer width / profile - unlikely to be anything other than a straight 1.125inch on your bike - but with tapered head-tubes you may have to change the lower crown race.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 5 hours ago









    OraNob

    2,74639




    2,74639











    • Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
      – Argenti Apparatus
      4 hours ago
















    • Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
      – Argenti Apparatus
      4 hours ago















    Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
    – Argenti Apparatus
    4 hours ago




    Great answer. Unfortunately 420mm axle-crown forks seem to be hard to find these days.
    – Argenti Apparatus
    4 hours ago










    up vote
    0
    down vote













    Answering secondary questions




    What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement?




    You should consider replacing the headset, or at the very least servicing the bearings if they are not too worn.




    Won't I make it much worse?



    I'm okey [sic] with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.




    If you are riding on paved surfaces you will not really need suspension and you'll appreciate the reduction in mass. I don't think you'll mess up your bike (but do make sure you get the right length fork as a different length will alter your steering geometry).






    share|improve this answer
























      up vote
      0
      down vote













      Answering secondary questions




      What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement?




      You should consider replacing the headset, or at the very least servicing the bearings if they are not too worn.




      Won't I make it much worse?



      I'm okey [sic] with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.




      If you are riding on paved surfaces you will not really need suspension and you'll appreciate the reduction in mass. I don't think you'll mess up your bike (but do make sure you get the right length fork as a different length will alter your steering geometry).






      share|improve this answer






















        up vote
        0
        down vote










        up vote
        0
        down vote









        Answering secondary questions




        What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement?




        You should consider replacing the headset, or at the very least servicing the bearings if they are not too worn.




        Won't I make it much worse?



        I'm okey [sic] with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.




        If you are riding on paved surfaces you will not really need suspension and you'll appreciate the reduction in mass. I don't think you'll mess up your bike (but do make sure you get the right length fork as a different length will alter your steering geometry).






        share|improve this answer












        Answering secondary questions




        What parts would I need in addition to the fork itself to do the replacement?




        You should consider replacing the headset, or at the very least servicing the bearings if they are not too worn.




        Won't I make it much worse?



        I'm okey [sic] with what I have now, but would be nice to go little faster.




        If you are riding on paved surfaces you will not really need suspension and you'll appreciate the reduction in mass. I don't think you'll mess up your bike (but do make sure you get the right length fork as a different length will alter your steering geometry).







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 3 hours ago









        Argenti Apparatus

        25.5k23067




        25.5k23067




















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