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Should I replace my 36 year old copper house wiring with UF-B?
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I want to replace all of the wire in my house and in the light fixtures because my house is 36 years old and I think It's time the wire gets updated and upgraded
I currently have 14/2 wire throughout all of the outlets and lighting in the house ( unknown type ), and 18 Gauge running into the fixtures, I'm wanting to upgrade to 12/2 wire so i don't have to worry about high resistance causing high heat with newer technology but I'm lost on what type of wire to use. NM-B, UF-B, THHN, PLTC, THWN I do not want to go cheap, I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper... I want it to with stand heat, or If any leaks occur throughout the years in an outlet by the window or the wiring in the ceiling
Would UF-B be appropriate for walls and ceilings even though it's rated for underground or outside use?
United States
electrical
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
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add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I want to replace all of the wire in my house and in the light fixtures because my house is 36 years old and I think It's time the wire gets updated and upgraded
I currently have 14/2 wire throughout all of the outlets and lighting in the house ( unknown type ), and 18 Gauge running into the fixtures, I'm wanting to upgrade to 12/2 wire so i don't have to worry about high resistance causing high heat with newer technology but I'm lost on what type of wire to use. NM-B, UF-B, THHN, PLTC, THWN I do not want to go cheap, I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper... I want it to with stand heat, or If any leaks occur throughout the years in an outlet by the window or the wiring in the ceiling
Would UF-B be appropriate for walls and ceilings even though it's rated for underground or outside use?
United States
electrical
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
6
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
2
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
1
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I want to replace all of the wire in my house and in the light fixtures because my house is 36 years old and I think It's time the wire gets updated and upgraded
I currently have 14/2 wire throughout all of the outlets and lighting in the house ( unknown type ), and 18 Gauge running into the fixtures, I'm wanting to upgrade to 12/2 wire so i don't have to worry about high resistance causing high heat with newer technology but I'm lost on what type of wire to use. NM-B, UF-B, THHN, PLTC, THWN I do not want to go cheap, I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper... I want it to with stand heat, or If any leaks occur throughout the years in an outlet by the window or the wiring in the ceiling
Would UF-B be appropriate for walls and ceilings even though it's rated for underground or outside use?
United States
electrical
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I want to replace all of the wire in my house and in the light fixtures because my house is 36 years old and I think It's time the wire gets updated and upgraded
I currently have 14/2 wire throughout all of the outlets and lighting in the house ( unknown type ), and 18 Gauge running into the fixtures, I'm wanting to upgrade to 12/2 wire so i don't have to worry about high resistance causing high heat with newer technology but I'm lost on what type of wire to use. NM-B, UF-B, THHN, PLTC, THWN I do not want to go cheap, I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper... I want it to with stand heat, or If any leaks occur throughout the years in an outlet by the window or the wiring in the ceiling
Would UF-B be appropriate for walls and ceilings even though it's rated for underground or outside use?
United States
electrical
electrical
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
edited 2 hours ago
isherwood
42.6k453106
42.6k453106
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
asked 3 hours ago
hello motto
83
83
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
hello motto is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
6
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
2
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
1
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
6
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
2
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
1
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
6
6
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
2
2
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
1
1
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
Upgrade the Breakers and/or the Panel
As others have said, copper wiring installed properly doesn't "go bad". What goes bad are connections, outlets, fixtures and breakers. The way to protect all of that - and protect against any true wiring faults as well - is to upgrade your panel. Current code requires GFCI and/or AFCI in many locations. GFCI is for protecting against ground faults and therefore is required in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. AFCI is for protecting against arc faults which theoretically can occur anywhere. AFCI is properly done at or near the panel. GFCI just needs to be someplace before the humans it is protecting, so it can be at the panel or at the outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, etc.
My recommendation would be to check/upgrade:
- If you have existing GFCI outlets or breakers, test them and replace any that don't trip properly when tested.
- If you have any circuits that should have GFCI (this generally means counter receptacles in the kitchen and any receptacles in the bathroom, but there are other areas like the garage that may need them too under current code) then either put a GFCI in the first receptacle in each chain or replace regular panel breakers with GFCI.
- For most other circuits (e.g., bedrooms), AFCI is part of the current code requirement and ideally should be added at the panel (in place of regular breakers). That will help protect against many types of potential wire faults.
- If your panel currently has "double stuff" breakers then making these GFCI and/or AFCI replacements may not be practical. If so, it may be time for a panel replacement or adding on a subpanel in order to have more spaces for full size breakers.
- If your dryer and/or stove is currently on a 3-wire (bootleg ground to neutral) connection then upgrading that to a code-compliant 4-wire connection is a priority.
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today. That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture. But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.
If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider. Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.
If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit. That would be a huge job but conduit is forever. If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home. It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit. I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit. If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.
If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
I'll be honest: UF-B is overkill inside walls. UF-B is designed to do two things NM can't
- UV resistant (the outer jacket doesn't break up in sunlight as easily)
- Water resistant. The wires are literally coated with the outer jacket (as opposed to merely wrapped like NM) so water cannot penetrate as easily
You're not going to encounter either situation inside your walls (if you do, you've got bigger issues). Even if you do, NM is unlikely to be harmed by short-term exposure to incidental water (i.e. a leak). UF is slightly more expensive than NM for no real gain. If you want to hang the expense and get some real value, go with armor clad and install some metal boxes to boot. This is the closest you can get to conduit without going conduit. It protects the wire against damage (which is a far more common threat to wire than leaks)
I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper
For branch circuits (i.e. inside your walls), yes. But your electrical service wire is almost certainly aluminum. You cannot buy aluminum wires to go inside your walls (4 gauge and larger is the only way to buy aluminum generally).
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
How I wish our house was wired in #12 copper! My sister bought a new house in a tract development outside Gulfport MS and all her receptacles and lights were on 20 A circuits in #12 copper. No #14 wire in the house. I admired that, but really it is overkill.
The receptacles and lights in our 48-year-old house in Dallas TX are wired in aluminum: #12 for 15 A circuits and #10 for 20 A circuits. I have pig-tailed all the terminations, but have not replaced any aluminum conductor. I have never tied into any of the original aluminum wiring. I have added two 20 A circuits in #12 copper, but I have no plans to ever replace the original wiring unless we would be doing an extensive renovation.
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
Upgrade the Breakers and/or the Panel
As others have said, copper wiring installed properly doesn't "go bad". What goes bad are connections, outlets, fixtures and breakers. The way to protect all of that - and protect against any true wiring faults as well - is to upgrade your panel. Current code requires GFCI and/or AFCI in many locations. GFCI is for protecting against ground faults and therefore is required in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. AFCI is for protecting against arc faults which theoretically can occur anywhere. AFCI is properly done at or near the panel. GFCI just needs to be someplace before the humans it is protecting, so it can be at the panel or at the outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, etc.
My recommendation would be to check/upgrade:
- If you have existing GFCI outlets or breakers, test them and replace any that don't trip properly when tested.
- If you have any circuits that should have GFCI (this generally means counter receptacles in the kitchen and any receptacles in the bathroom, but there are other areas like the garage that may need them too under current code) then either put a GFCI in the first receptacle in each chain or replace regular panel breakers with GFCI.
- For most other circuits (e.g., bedrooms), AFCI is part of the current code requirement and ideally should be added at the panel (in place of regular breakers). That will help protect against many types of potential wire faults.
- If your panel currently has "double stuff" breakers then making these GFCI and/or AFCI replacements may not be practical. If so, it may be time for a panel replacement or adding on a subpanel in order to have more spaces for full size breakers.
- If your dryer and/or stove is currently on a 3-wire (bootleg ground to neutral) connection then upgrading that to a code-compliant 4-wire connection is a priority.
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
Upgrade the Breakers and/or the Panel
As others have said, copper wiring installed properly doesn't "go bad". What goes bad are connections, outlets, fixtures and breakers. The way to protect all of that - and protect against any true wiring faults as well - is to upgrade your panel. Current code requires GFCI and/or AFCI in many locations. GFCI is for protecting against ground faults and therefore is required in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. AFCI is for protecting against arc faults which theoretically can occur anywhere. AFCI is properly done at or near the panel. GFCI just needs to be someplace before the humans it is protecting, so it can be at the panel or at the outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, etc.
My recommendation would be to check/upgrade:
- If you have existing GFCI outlets or breakers, test them and replace any that don't trip properly when tested.
- If you have any circuits that should have GFCI (this generally means counter receptacles in the kitchen and any receptacles in the bathroom, but there are other areas like the garage that may need them too under current code) then either put a GFCI in the first receptacle in each chain or replace regular panel breakers with GFCI.
- For most other circuits (e.g., bedrooms), AFCI is part of the current code requirement and ideally should be added at the panel (in place of regular breakers). That will help protect against many types of potential wire faults.
- If your panel currently has "double stuff" breakers then making these GFCI and/or AFCI replacements may not be practical. If so, it may be time for a panel replacement or adding on a subpanel in order to have more spaces for full size breakers.
- If your dryer and/or stove is currently on a 3-wire (bootleg ground to neutral) connection then upgrading that to a code-compliant 4-wire connection is a priority.
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
Upgrade the Breakers and/or the Panel
As others have said, copper wiring installed properly doesn't "go bad". What goes bad are connections, outlets, fixtures and breakers. The way to protect all of that - and protect against any true wiring faults as well - is to upgrade your panel. Current code requires GFCI and/or AFCI in many locations. GFCI is for protecting against ground faults and therefore is required in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. AFCI is for protecting against arc faults which theoretically can occur anywhere. AFCI is properly done at or near the panel. GFCI just needs to be someplace before the humans it is protecting, so it can be at the panel or at the outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, etc.
My recommendation would be to check/upgrade:
- If you have existing GFCI outlets or breakers, test them and replace any that don't trip properly when tested.
- If you have any circuits that should have GFCI (this generally means counter receptacles in the kitchen and any receptacles in the bathroom, but there are other areas like the garage that may need them too under current code) then either put a GFCI in the first receptacle in each chain or replace regular panel breakers with GFCI.
- For most other circuits (e.g., bedrooms), AFCI is part of the current code requirement and ideally should be added at the panel (in place of regular breakers). That will help protect against many types of potential wire faults.
- If your panel currently has "double stuff" breakers then making these GFCI and/or AFCI replacements may not be practical. If so, it may be time for a panel replacement or adding on a subpanel in order to have more spaces for full size breakers.
- If your dryer and/or stove is currently on a 3-wire (bootleg ground to neutral) connection then upgrading that to a code-compliant 4-wire connection is a priority.
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
Upgrade the Breakers and/or the Panel
As others have said, copper wiring installed properly doesn't "go bad". What goes bad are connections, outlets, fixtures and breakers. The way to protect all of that - and protect against any true wiring faults as well - is to upgrade your panel. Current code requires GFCI and/or AFCI in many locations. GFCI is for protecting against ground faults and therefore is required in wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. AFCI is for protecting against arc faults which theoretically can occur anywhere. AFCI is properly done at or near the panel. GFCI just needs to be someplace before the humans it is protecting, so it can be at the panel or at the outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, etc.
My recommendation would be to check/upgrade:
- If you have existing GFCI outlets or breakers, test them and replace any that don't trip properly when tested.
- If you have any circuits that should have GFCI (this generally means counter receptacles in the kitchen and any receptacles in the bathroom, but there are other areas like the garage that may need them too under current code) then either put a GFCI in the first receptacle in each chain or replace regular panel breakers with GFCI.
- For most other circuits (e.g., bedrooms), AFCI is part of the current code requirement and ideally should be added at the panel (in place of regular breakers). That will help protect against many types of potential wire faults.
- If your panel currently has "double stuff" breakers then making these GFCI and/or AFCI replacements may not be practical. If so, it may be time for a panel replacement or adding on a subpanel in order to have more spaces for full size breakers.
- If your dryer and/or stove is currently on a 3-wire (bootleg ground to neutral) connection then upgrading that to a code-compliant 4-wire connection is a priority.
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
answered 56 mins ago
manassehkatz
3,996419
3,996419
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today. That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture. But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.
If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider. Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.
If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit. That would be a huge job but conduit is forever. If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home. It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit. I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit. If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.
If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today. That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture. But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.
If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider. Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.
If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit. That would be a huge job but conduit is forever. If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home. It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit. I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit. If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.
If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today. That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture. But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.
If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider. Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.
If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit. That would be a huge job but conduit is forever. If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home. It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit. I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit. If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.
If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today. That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture. But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.
If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider. Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.
If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit. That would be a huge job but conduit is forever. If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home. It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit. I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit. If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.
If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
7,0221022
7,0221022
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I agree, except for the conduit. That's just wasteful in a residence.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
I am definitely in the minority but IMO it would not be unreasonable to run anything that extends into a ceiling with a finished floor above it in conduit. For example in a typical two story house, the first floor lights.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
In my experience, if anything is reconfigured later it involves new box locations. Conduit actually makes things more challenging in that case.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
I don't know about that - you can still branch out of the boxes connected to conduit with cables. But my concern was more maintenance, rodent chewed or water damaged cables, etc. If you're doing major remodeling, drywall / paint work is a given.
– batsplatsterson
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
I'll be honest: UF-B is overkill inside walls. UF-B is designed to do two things NM can't
- UV resistant (the outer jacket doesn't break up in sunlight as easily)
- Water resistant. The wires are literally coated with the outer jacket (as opposed to merely wrapped like NM) so water cannot penetrate as easily
You're not going to encounter either situation inside your walls (if you do, you've got bigger issues). Even if you do, NM is unlikely to be harmed by short-term exposure to incidental water (i.e. a leak). UF is slightly more expensive than NM for no real gain. If you want to hang the expense and get some real value, go with armor clad and install some metal boxes to boot. This is the closest you can get to conduit without going conduit. It protects the wire against damage (which is a far more common threat to wire than leaks)
I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper
For branch circuits (i.e. inside your walls), yes. But your electrical service wire is almost certainly aluminum. You cannot buy aluminum wires to go inside your walls (4 gauge and larger is the only way to buy aluminum generally).
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
I'll be honest: UF-B is overkill inside walls. UF-B is designed to do two things NM can't
- UV resistant (the outer jacket doesn't break up in sunlight as easily)
- Water resistant. The wires are literally coated with the outer jacket (as opposed to merely wrapped like NM) so water cannot penetrate as easily
You're not going to encounter either situation inside your walls (if you do, you've got bigger issues). Even if you do, NM is unlikely to be harmed by short-term exposure to incidental water (i.e. a leak). UF is slightly more expensive than NM for no real gain. If you want to hang the expense and get some real value, go with armor clad and install some metal boxes to boot. This is the closest you can get to conduit without going conduit. It protects the wire against damage (which is a far more common threat to wire than leaks)
I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper
For branch circuits (i.e. inside your walls), yes. But your electrical service wire is almost certainly aluminum. You cannot buy aluminum wires to go inside your walls (4 gauge and larger is the only way to buy aluminum generally).
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
I'll be honest: UF-B is overkill inside walls. UF-B is designed to do two things NM can't
- UV resistant (the outer jacket doesn't break up in sunlight as easily)
- Water resistant. The wires are literally coated with the outer jacket (as opposed to merely wrapped like NM) so water cannot penetrate as easily
You're not going to encounter either situation inside your walls (if you do, you've got bigger issues). Even if you do, NM is unlikely to be harmed by short-term exposure to incidental water (i.e. a leak). UF is slightly more expensive than NM for no real gain. If you want to hang the expense and get some real value, go with armor clad and install some metal boxes to boot. This is the closest you can get to conduit without going conduit. It protects the wire against damage (which is a far more common threat to wire than leaks)
I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper
For branch circuits (i.e. inside your walls), yes. But your electrical service wire is almost certainly aluminum. You cannot buy aluminum wires to go inside your walls (4 gauge and larger is the only way to buy aluminum generally).
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
I'll be honest: UF-B is overkill inside walls. UF-B is designed to do two things NM can't
- UV resistant (the outer jacket doesn't break up in sunlight as easily)
- Water resistant. The wires are literally coated with the outer jacket (as opposed to merely wrapped like NM) so water cannot penetrate as easily
You're not going to encounter either situation inside your walls (if you do, you've got bigger issues). Even if you do, NM is unlikely to be harmed by short-term exposure to incidental water (i.e. a leak). UF is slightly more expensive than NM for no real gain. If you want to hang the expense and get some real value, go with armor clad and install some metal boxes to boot. This is the closest you can get to conduit without going conduit. It protects the wire against damage (which is a far more common threat to wire than leaks)
I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper
For branch circuits (i.e. inside your walls), yes. But your electrical service wire is almost certainly aluminum. You cannot buy aluminum wires to go inside your walls (4 gauge and larger is the only way to buy aluminum generally).
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
answered 1 hour ago
Machavity
6,14011633
6,14011633
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
How I wish our house was wired in #12 copper! My sister bought a new house in a tract development outside Gulfport MS and all her receptacles and lights were on 20 A circuits in #12 copper. No #14 wire in the house. I admired that, but really it is overkill.
The receptacles and lights in our 48-year-old house in Dallas TX are wired in aluminum: #12 for 15 A circuits and #10 for 20 A circuits. I have pig-tailed all the terminations, but have not replaced any aluminum conductor. I have never tied into any of the original aluminum wiring. I have added two 20 A circuits in #12 copper, but I have no plans to ever replace the original wiring unless we would be doing an extensive renovation.
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
How I wish our house was wired in #12 copper! My sister bought a new house in a tract development outside Gulfport MS and all her receptacles and lights were on 20 A circuits in #12 copper. No #14 wire in the house. I admired that, but really it is overkill.
The receptacles and lights in our 48-year-old house in Dallas TX are wired in aluminum: #12 for 15 A circuits and #10 for 20 A circuits. I have pig-tailed all the terminations, but have not replaced any aluminum conductor. I have never tied into any of the original aluminum wiring. I have added two 20 A circuits in #12 copper, but I have no plans to ever replace the original wiring unless we would be doing an extensive renovation.
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
How I wish our house was wired in #12 copper! My sister bought a new house in a tract development outside Gulfport MS and all her receptacles and lights were on 20 A circuits in #12 copper. No #14 wire in the house. I admired that, but really it is overkill.
The receptacles and lights in our 48-year-old house in Dallas TX are wired in aluminum: #12 for 15 A circuits and #10 for 20 A circuits. I have pig-tailed all the terminations, but have not replaced any aluminum conductor. I have never tied into any of the original aluminum wiring. I have added two 20 A circuits in #12 copper, but I have no plans to ever replace the original wiring unless we would be doing an extensive renovation.
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
How I wish our house was wired in #12 copper! My sister bought a new house in a tract development outside Gulfport MS and all her receptacles and lights were on 20 A circuits in #12 copper. No #14 wire in the house. I admired that, but really it is overkill.
The receptacles and lights in our 48-year-old house in Dallas TX are wired in aluminum: #12 for 15 A circuits and #10 for 20 A circuits. I have pig-tailed all the terminations, but have not replaced any aluminum conductor. I have never tied into any of the original aluminum wiring. I have added two 20 A circuits in #12 copper, but I have no plans to ever replace the original wiring unless we would be doing an extensive renovation.
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
answered 2 hours ago
Jim Stewart
9,96011028
9,96011028
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
You don't say why you wish and admire. #12 contains roughly twice the copper, which means twice the mining and processing and the pollution and energy wasted that involves, for no benefit.
– isherwood
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
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hello motto is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
hello motto is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
hello motto is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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6
If you have copper wire, and your house was wired with normal practices of the time, there is no reason to "update" your wiring. Have you looked in your electrical panel to see how many circuits are on a 15 A breaker and how many are on 20-A breaker? Do you have circuits on a 20-A breaker that are in #14 wire? If so, that would be a problem, but otherwise your time and money would be better spent elsewhere.
– Jim Stewart
3 hours ago
2
You have a larger risk at damaging the wire in a remodel compared to new construction. The copper wire and insulation is fine and will outlast your children. Whoever gave you the idea that old wire causes high resistance is nuts. I have worked on old knob and tube that was put in in the early 1900's and some of that is still in use after over 100 years. The 18 gauge wire in the light fixtures is good for 7 amps and most fixtures are 60w so you are only drawing .5 amps if LED's half of that. Why do you think you need to update your wiring?
– Ed Beal
2 hours ago
1
No one makes or uses solid aluminum wiring in that size, and as the others said your wiring is fine. Do something useful with your cash.
– isherwood
2 hours ago