Mixing
Lighting on highly reflective surfaces - chromed Dobro guitar
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
TL:DR - is there a better/smarter/easier/more convincing way to light this?
I've taken on the challenge of photographing a friend's guitar collection.
I don't anticipate difficulties with most of it. I'll be doing some 'catalogue' shots; square on, then in tight to pick out details, and then some 'artistic' shots; at odd angles, against 'fun' backgrounds etc. - however I decided to start with the tough one.
A 1930's Regal Dobro - essentially a curved, engraved, box made of chromed steel.
Let's assume for now that I can't take it outdoors & emulate the Dire Straights Brothers in Arms cover [& if only this Dobro was as simple a form as that one, but it's not]; that it's studio, black background.
I have 4 lights to play with. 2 speedlights in soft boxes & 2 constant video lights, with optional extra diffuser clipped over.
This is what I have so far...
This is lit using...
- One video light high over the head, which is also providing the highlight on the top right of the neck.
- The other slightly behind to the right, giving the 2 highlights on the side of the body at the right.
- The 2 speedlights are to the left, both in softboxes; one in close at 45° & is responsible for most of the 'white' reflected in the body; the other at maybe 15°, further out & attempting to cover off the right-hand hump in the 'resonator' [the circular bit that looks like a speaker]
The shadowing in that area is partly the softbox surround & partly just darkness from the rest of the room.
Quick phone snap to try show just how much movement there is in that area
The only way I can think of to flatten out the light a bit without losing the shape would be to try surround it all in white sheets, then fire the flashes into those instead of just through the softboxes - but I cannot think of a practical way to actually achieve that.
So, any hints as to lighting or, heaven forfend, is it getting towards 'good enough' as it is?
Phone snap of the setup, from a metre camera-right so both speedlights can be seen - heavily punched up in Photoshop so you can see what's going on. 'Scuse the mess ;)
product-photography studio-lighting
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
TL:DR - is there a better/smarter/easier/more convincing way to light this?
I've taken on the challenge of photographing a friend's guitar collection.
I don't anticipate difficulties with most of it. I'll be doing some 'catalogue' shots; square on, then in tight to pick out details, and then some 'artistic' shots; at odd angles, against 'fun' backgrounds etc. - however I decided to start with the tough one.
A 1930's Regal Dobro - essentially a curved, engraved, box made of chromed steel.
Let's assume for now that I can't take it outdoors & emulate the Dire Straights Brothers in Arms cover [& if only this Dobro was as simple a form as that one, but it's not]; that it's studio, black background.
I have 4 lights to play with. 2 speedlights in soft boxes & 2 constant video lights, with optional extra diffuser clipped over.
This is what I have so far...
This is lit using...
- One video light high over the head, which is also providing the highlight on the top right of the neck.
- The other slightly behind to the right, giving the 2 highlights on the side of the body at the right.
- The 2 speedlights are to the left, both in softboxes; one in close at 45° & is responsible for most of the 'white' reflected in the body; the other at maybe 15°, further out & attempting to cover off the right-hand hump in the 'resonator' [the circular bit that looks like a speaker]
The shadowing in that area is partly the softbox surround & partly just darkness from the rest of the room.
Quick phone snap to try show just how much movement there is in that area
The only way I can think of to flatten out the light a bit without losing the shape would be to try surround it all in white sheets, then fire the flashes into those instead of just through the softboxes - but I cannot think of a practical way to actually achieve that.
So, any hints as to lighting or, heaven forfend, is it getting towards 'good enough' as it is?
Phone snap of the setup, from a metre camera-right so both speedlights can be seen - heavily punched up in Photoshop so you can see what's going on. 'Scuse the mess ;)
product-photography studio-lighting
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
1
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
1
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
TL:DR - is there a better/smarter/easier/more convincing way to light this?
I've taken on the challenge of photographing a friend's guitar collection.
I don't anticipate difficulties with most of it. I'll be doing some 'catalogue' shots; square on, then in tight to pick out details, and then some 'artistic' shots; at odd angles, against 'fun' backgrounds etc. - however I decided to start with the tough one.
A 1930's Regal Dobro - essentially a curved, engraved, box made of chromed steel.
Let's assume for now that I can't take it outdoors & emulate the Dire Straights Brothers in Arms cover [& if only this Dobro was as simple a form as that one, but it's not]; that it's studio, black background.
I have 4 lights to play with. 2 speedlights in soft boxes & 2 constant video lights, with optional extra diffuser clipped over.
This is what I have so far...
This is lit using...
- One video light high over the head, which is also providing the highlight on the top right of the neck.
- The other slightly behind to the right, giving the 2 highlights on the side of the body at the right.
- The 2 speedlights are to the left, both in softboxes; one in close at 45° & is responsible for most of the 'white' reflected in the body; the other at maybe 15°, further out & attempting to cover off the right-hand hump in the 'resonator' [the circular bit that looks like a speaker]
The shadowing in that area is partly the softbox surround & partly just darkness from the rest of the room.
Quick phone snap to try show just how much movement there is in that area
The only way I can think of to flatten out the light a bit without losing the shape would be to try surround it all in white sheets, then fire the flashes into those instead of just through the softboxes - but I cannot think of a practical way to actually achieve that.
So, any hints as to lighting or, heaven forfend, is it getting towards 'good enough' as it is?
Phone snap of the setup, from a metre camera-right so both speedlights can be seen - heavily punched up in Photoshop so you can see what's going on. 'Scuse the mess ;)
product-photography studio-lighting
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
TL:DR - is there a better/smarter/easier/more convincing way to light this?
I've taken on the challenge of photographing a friend's guitar collection.
I don't anticipate difficulties with most of it. I'll be doing some 'catalogue' shots; square on, then in tight to pick out details, and then some 'artistic' shots; at odd angles, against 'fun' backgrounds etc. - however I decided to start with the tough one.
A 1930's Regal Dobro - essentially a curved, engraved, box made of chromed steel.
Let's assume for now that I can't take it outdoors & emulate the Dire Straights Brothers in Arms cover [& if only this Dobro was as simple a form as that one, but it's not]; that it's studio, black background.
I have 4 lights to play with. 2 speedlights in soft boxes & 2 constant video lights, with optional extra diffuser clipped over.
This is what I have so far...
This is lit using...
- One video light high over the head, which is also providing the highlight on the top right of the neck.
- The other slightly behind to the right, giving the 2 highlights on the side of the body at the right.
- The 2 speedlights are to the left, both in softboxes; one in close at 45° & is responsible for most of the 'white' reflected in the body; the other at maybe 15°, further out & attempting to cover off the right-hand hump in the 'resonator' [the circular bit that looks like a speaker]
The shadowing in that area is partly the softbox surround & partly just darkness from the rest of the room.
Quick phone snap to try show just how much movement there is in that area
The only way I can think of to flatten out the light a bit without losing the shape would be to try surround it all in white sheets, then fire the flashes into those instead of just through the softboxes - but I cannot think of a practical way to actually achieve that.
So, any hints as to lighting or, heaven forfend, is it getting towards 'good enough' as it is?
Phone snap of the setup, from a metre camera-right so both speedlights can be seen - heavily punched up in Photoshop so you can see what's going on. 'Scuse the mess ;)
product-photography studio-lighting
product-photography studio-lighting
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
edited 6 hours ago
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
asked 7 hours ago
Tetsujin
7,22221843
7,22221843
I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
1
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
1
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
1
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
1
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
1
1
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
1
1
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
up vote
1
down vote
Create a light box. This will be a snow-white chamber made from bed sheets or better, Styrofoam board (Home Depot R-Teck 4’X8’ R-3 insulating sheathing #320821 $12.58). Buy some ¾†PVC white pipe and fittings. Construct a framework with the PVC pipe and apply the bed sheet or Styrofoam to make a white chamber. Place the object to be photographed inside. Light the translucent chamber by aiming at the outside walls of this diffusion tent. This lash-up will be devoid of shadows.
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The mirror finish guitar should be placed inside a curved cyclorama so there is an even white reflection unbroken by black "gaps" caused by flat sheets of background.
This can be done with a normal white bed sheet or two hung from a round "shower curtain" type rod. The ends must be placed deeper into the set than the edges of the Dobro so the curved face picks up only the white background to allow the engraving to be uninterrupted.
Take the shot through the smallest opening you can manage. A hole between two sheets would be better than a vertical gap between them.
Here is the top view:
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
This is opinion-y, but too answer-y for a comment: I would say a nice complement to what you already have there might be some experimentation with bringing the softboxen in as close as you can. This simultaneously makes for a larger, softer source on the one hand, but can actually look less flat due to more dramatic light fall-off across the contours, and the fact that at close angles the contours themselves can contribute more variation in angles towards the light.
If you can stick the video lights in the boxes it'll make it easier to see the effect you're getting from different positioning (the recent availability of cheap, high-CRI constant light sources is something I'm really starting to appreciate).
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
1
down vote
Create a light box. This will be a snow-white chamber made from bed sheets or better, Styrofoam board (Home Depot R-Teck 4’X8’ R-3 insulating sheathing #320821 $12.58). Buy some ¾†PVC white pipe and fittings. Construct a framework with the PVC pipe and apply the bed sheet or Styrofoam to make a white chamber. Place the object to be photographed inside. Light the translucent chamber by aiming at the outside walls of this diffusion tent. This lash-up will be devoid of shadows.
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Create a light box. This will be a snow-white chamber made from bed sheets or better, Styrofoam board (Home Depot R-Teck 4’X8’ R-3 insulating sheathing #320821 $12.58). Buy some ¾†PVC white pipe and fittings. Construct a framework with the PVC pipe and apply the bed sheet or Styrofoam to make a white chamber. Place the object to be photographed inside. Light the translucent chamber by aiming at the outside walls of this diffusion tent. This lash-up will be devoid of shadows.
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Create a light box. This will be a snow-white chamber made from bed sheets or better, Styrofoam board (Home Depot R-Teck 4’X8’ R-3 insulating sheathing #320821 $12.58). Buy some ¾†PVC white pipe and fittings. Construct a framework with the PVC pipe and apply the bed sheet or Styrofoam to make a white chamber. Place the object to be photographed inside. Light the translucent chamber by aiming at the outside walls of this diffusion tent. This lash-up will be devoid of shadows.
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
Create a light box. This will be a snow-white chamber made from bed sheets or better, Styrofoam board (Home Depot R-Teck 4’X8’ R-3 insulating sheathing #320821 $12.58). Buy some ¾†PVC white pipe and fittings. Construct a framework with the PVC pipe and apply the bed sheet or Styrofoam to make a white chamber. Place the object to be photographed inside. Light the translucent chamber by aiming at the outside walls of this diffusion tent. This lash-up will be devoid of shadows.
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
answered 5 hours ago
Alan Marcus
23.6k12756
23.6k12756
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The mirror finish guitar should be placed inside a curved cyclorama so there is an even white reflection unbroken by black "gaps" caused by flat sheets of background.
This can be done with a normal white bed sheet or two hung from a round "shower curtain" type rod. The ends must be placed deeper into the set than the edges of the Dobro so the curved face picks up only the white background to allow the engraving to be uninterrupted.
Take the shot through the smallest opening you can manage. A hole between two sheets would be better than a vertical gap between them.
Here is the top view:
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The mirror finish guitar should be placed inside a curved cyclorama so there is an even white reflection unbroken by black "gaps" caused by flat sheets of background.
This can be done with a normal white bed sheet or two hung from a round "shower curtain" type rod. The ends must be placed deeper into the set than the edges of the Dobro so the curved face picks up only the white background to allow the engraving to be uninterrupted.
Take the shot through the smallest opening you can manage. A hole between two sheets would be better than a vertical gap between them.
Here is the top view:
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
The mirror finish guitar should be placed inside a curved cyclorama so there is an even white reflection unbroken by black "gaps" caused by flat sheets of background.
This can be done with a normal white bed sheet or two hung from a round "shower curtain" type rod. The ends must be placed deeper into the set than the edges of the Dobro so the curved face picks up only the white background to allow the engraving to be uninterrupted.
Take the shot through the smallest opening you can manage. A hole between two sheets would be better than a vertical gap between them.
Here is the top view:
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
The mirror finish guitar should be placed inside a curved cyclorama so there is an even white reflection unbroken by black "gaps" caused by flat sheets of background.
This can be done with a normal white bed sheet or two hung from a round "shower curtain" type rod. The ends must be placed deeper into the set than the edges of the Dobro so the curved face picks up only the white background to allow the engraving to be uninterrupted.
Take the shot through the smallest opening you can manage. A hole between two sheets would be better than a vertical gap between them.
Here is the top view:
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
answered 1 hour ago
Stan
3,498820
3,498820
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
This is opinion-y, but too answer-y for a comment: I would say a nice complement to what you already have there might be some experimentation with bringing the softboxen in as close as you can. This simultaneously makes for a larger, softer source on the one hand, but can actually look less flat due to more dramatic light fall-off across the contours, and the fact that at close angles the contours themselves can contribute more variation in angles towards the light.
If you can stick the video lights in the boxes it'll make it easier to see the effect you're getting from different positioning (the recent availability of cheap, high-CRI constant light sources is something I'm really starting to appreciate).
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
This is opinion-y, but too answer-y for a comment: I would say a nice complement to what you already have there might be some experimentation with bringing the softboxen in as close as you can. This simultaneously makes for a larger, softer source on the one hand, but can actually look less flat due to more dramatic light fall-off across the contours, and the fact that at close angles the contours themselves can contribute more variation in angles towards the light.
If you can stick the video lights in the boxes it'll make it easier to see the effect you're getting from different positioning (the recent availability of cheap, high-CRI constant light sources is something I'm really starting to appreciate).
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
This is opinion-y, but too answer-y for a comment: I would say a nice complement to what you already have there might be some experimentation with bringing the softboxen in as close as you can. This simultaneously makes for a larger, softer source on the one hand, but can actually look less flat due to more dramatic light fall-off across the contours, and the fact that at close angles the contours themselves can contribute more variation in angles towards the light.
If you can stick the video lights in the boxes it'll make it easier to see the effect you're getting from different positioning (the recent availability of cheap, high-CRI constant light sources is something I'm really starting to appreciate).
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
This is opinion-y, but too answer-y for a comment: I would say a nice complement to what you already have there might be some experimentation with bringing the softboxen in as close as you can. This simultaneously makes for a larger, softer source on the one hand, but can actually look less flat due to more dramatic light fall-off across the contours, and the fact that at close angles the contours themselves can contribute more variation in angles towards the light.
If you can stick the video lights in the boxes it'll make it easier to see the effect you're getting from different positioning (the recent availability of cheap, high-CRI constant light sources is something I'm really starting to appreciate).
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
answered 1 hour ago
junkyardsparkle
4,400924
4,400924
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
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I thought Dire Straits by the first image, without even reading the text :)
– Alexander von Wernherr
7 hours ago
1
You need a bear assistant. Obviously.
– Hueco
6 hours ago
And if you look at the original picture: The guitar has a dull surface, which made photographing much easier
– Alexander von Wernherr
6 hours ago
1
How about bouncing softbox light off a reflector disc rather than direct lighting?
– MiguelH
6 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I photograph a reflective convex cylindrical trophy without reflections?
– mattdm
1 hour ago