How to solder a 70 °C (158 °F) thermal / temperature fuse

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up vote
16
down vote

favorite

1

For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).

The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).

But how should I solder this component?

soldering fuses thermal heat-protection

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
  – Ï„εκ
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  4
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
  – Janka
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
  – Uwe
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
16
down vote

favorite

1

For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).

The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).

But how should I solder this component?

soldering fuses thermal heat-protection

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
  – Ï„εκ
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  4
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
  – Janka
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
  – Uwe
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
16
down vote

favorite

1

up vote
16
down vote

favorite

1

1

For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).

The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).

But how should I solder this component?

soldering fuses thermal heat-protection

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).

The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).

But how should I solder this component?

soldering fuses thermal heat-protection

soldering fuses thermal heat-protection

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

share|improve this question

share|improve this question

edited 8 mins ago

edited 8 mins ago

edited 8 mins ago

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

asked 22 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

5,03562255

• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
  – Ï„εκ
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  4
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
  – Janka
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
  – Uwe
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
  – Ï„εκ
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  4
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
  – Janka
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  5
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
  – Uwe
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

5

5

You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
22 hours ago

You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
22 hours ago

@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

4

4

The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
22 hours ago

The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
22 hours ago

5

5

What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
– Uwe
12 hours ago

What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
– Uwe
12 hours ago

@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago

@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago

add a comment | 

8 Answers
8

active

oldest

votes

up vote
24
down vote



accepted

I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.

Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
  – Nick Alexeev♦
  20 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
29
down vote

This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.

Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.

Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
  – Phil G
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
  – user71659
  19 hours ago
  
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
  – Spehro Pefhany
  14 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
  – Transistor
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
  – Christian Lescuyer
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

 | 
show 2 more comments

up vote
11
down vote

You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
7
down vote

Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.

For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.

Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.

Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.

Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.

Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

add a comment | 

up vote
3
down vote

Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

add a comment | 

up vote
0
down vote

Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
  – chepner
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
  – Matt
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

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8 Answers
8

active

oldest

votes

8 Answers
8

active

oldest

votes

active

oldest

votes

active

oldest

votes

up vote
24
down vote



accepted

I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.

Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
  – Nick Alexeev♦
  20 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
24
down vote



accepted

I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.

Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
  – Nick Alexeev♦
  20 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
24
down vote



accepted

up vote
24
down vote



accepted

I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.

Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.

Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

answered 22 hours ago

Peter Bennett

35.2k12662

35.2k12662

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
  – Nick Alexeev♦
  20 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
  – Nick Alexeev♦
  20 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
  – Michel Keijzers
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

2

2

Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
– Nick Alexeev♦
20 hours ago

Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
– Nick Alexeev♦
20 hours ago

Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago

Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago

add a comment | 

up vote
29
down vote

This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.

Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.

Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
  – Phil G
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
  – user71659
  19 hours ago
  
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
  – Spehro Pefhany
  14 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
  – Transistor
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
  – Christian Lescuyer
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

 | 
show 2 more comments

up vote
29
down vote

This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.

Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.

Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
  – Phil G
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
  – user71659
  19 hours ago
  
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
  – Spehro Pefhany
  14 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
  – Transistor
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
  – Christian Lescuyer
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

 | 
show 2 more comments

up vote
29
down vote

up vote
29
down vote

This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.

Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.

Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.

Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.

Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

answered 22 hours ago

Transistor

75.4k573165

75.4k573165

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
  – Phil G
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
  – user71659
  19 hours ago
  
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
  – Spehro Pefhany
  14 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
  – Transistor
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
  – Christian Lescuyer
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

 | 
show 2 more comments

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
  – Phil G
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
  – user71659
  19 hours ago
  
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
  – Spehro Pefhany
  14 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
  – Transistor
  12 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  1
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
  – Christian Lescuyer
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

2

2

With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
22 hours ago

With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
– Phil G
22 hours ago

1

1

@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
– user71659
19 hours ago

@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
– user71659
19 hours ago

1

1

I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
– Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago

I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
– Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago

1

1

@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
– Transistor
12 hours ago

@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
– Transistor
12 hours ago

1

1

@MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
– Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago

@MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
– Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago

 | 
show 2 more comments

up vote
11
down vote

You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
11
down vote

You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
11
down vote

up vote
11
down vote

You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

answered 22 hours ago

Phil G

5016

5016

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
  – Michel Keijzers
  22 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago

add a comment | 

up vote
7
down vote

Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.

For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.

Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

add a comment | 

up vote
7
down vote

Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.

For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.

Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

add a comment | 

up vote
7
down vote

up vote
7
down vote

Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.

For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.

Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.

For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.

Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

edited 14 hours ago

edited 14 hours ago

edited 14 hours ago

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

answered 14 hours ago

Dmitry Grigoryev

17.1k22772

17.1k22772

add a comment | 

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.

Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.

Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.

Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.

Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.

Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.

Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

up vote
4
down vote

As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.

Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.

Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.

Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.

Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.

Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.

Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

answered 21 hours ago

Phil C

9861117

9861117

add a comment | 

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

add a comment | 

up vote
4
down vote

up vote
4
down vote

My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

answered 3 hours ago

user71659

3157

3157

add a comment | 

add a comment | 

up vote
3
down vote

Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

add a comment | 

up vote
3
down vote

Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

add a comment | 

up vote
3
down vote

up vote
3
down vote

Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

answered 8 hours ago

rodeone2

312

312

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

New contributor

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

add a comment | 

add a comment | 

up vote
0
down vote

Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
  – chepner
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
  – Matt
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
0
down vote

Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
  – chepner
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
  – Matt
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

up vote
0
down vote

up vote
0
down vote

Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

share|improve this answer

share|improve this answer

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

edited 10 hours ago

Michel Keijzers

5,03562255

5,03562255

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

answered 11 hours ago

Matt

91

91

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

New contributor

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
  – chepner
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
  – Matt
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

• 
  
  
  

  
  2
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
  – chepner
  5 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
  – Matt
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

2

2

That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
– chepner
5 hours ago

That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
– chepner
5 hours ago

Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
– Matt
2 hours ago

Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
– Matt
2 hours ago

add a comment | 

 

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