How to solder a 70 °C (158 °F) thermal / temperature fuse

The name of the pictureThe name of the pictureThe name of the pictureClash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP











up vote
16
down vote

favorite
1












For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here






soldering fuses thermal heat-protection







share|improve this question



















  • 5




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    22 hours ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago






  • 4




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    22 hours ago






  • 5




    What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
    – Uwe
    12 hours ago










  • @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
    – Michel Keijzers
    8 hours ago














up vote
16
down vote

favorite
1












For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here






soldering fuses thermal heat-protection







share|improve this question



















  • 5




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    22 hours ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago






  • 4




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    22 hours ago






  • 5




    What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
    – Uwe
    12 hours ago










  • @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
    – Michel Keijzers
    8 hours ago












up vote
16
down vote

favorite
1









up vote
16
down vote

favorite
1






1





For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here






soldering fuses thermal heat-protection







share|improve this question















For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here






soldering fuses thermal heat-protection




soldering fuses thermal heat-protection






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 mins ago

























asked 22 hours ago









Michel Keijzers

5,03562255




5,03562255







  • 5




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    22 hours ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago






  • 4




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    22 hours ago






  • 5




    What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
    – Uwe
    12 hours ago










  • @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
    – Michel Keijzers
    8 hours ago












  • 5




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    22 hours ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago






  • 4




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    22 hours ago






  • 5




    What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
    – Uwe
    12 hours ago










  • @Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
    – Michel Keijzers
    8 hours ago







5




5




You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
22 hours ago




You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
22 hours ago












@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago




@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago




4




4




The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
22 hours ago




The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
22 hours ago




5




5




What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
– Uwe
12 hours ago




What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
– Uwe
12 hours ago












@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago




@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
– Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago










8 Answers
8






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
24
down vote



accepted










I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






share|improve this answer




















  • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago






  • 2




    Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
    – Nick Alexeev♦
    20 hours ago










  • Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
    – Michel Keijzers
    8 hours ago

















up vote
29
down vote













This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



enter image description here



Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






share|improve this answer
















  • 2




    With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
    – Phil G
    22 hours ago






  • 1




    @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
    – user71659
    19 hours ago







  • 1




    I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
    – Spehro Pefhany
    14 hours ago






  • 1




    @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
    – Transistor
    12 hours ago






  • 1




    @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
    – Christian Lescuyer
    5 hours ago

















up vote
11
down vote













You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






share|improve this answer




















  • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
    – Michel Keijzers
    22 hours ago

















up vote
7
down vote













Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.



For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.



Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).






share|improve this answer





























    up vote
    4
    down vote













    As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



    Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



    Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



    Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.






    share|improve this answer



























      up vote
      4
      down vote













      My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.






      share|improve this answer



























        up vote
        3
        down vote













        Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.






        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.
























          up vote
          0
          down vote













          Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.






          share|improve this answer










          New contributor




          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.













          • 2




            That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
            – chepner
            5 hours ago










          • Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
            – Matt
            2 hours ago










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          8 Answers
          8






          active

          oldest

          votes








          8 Answers
          8






          active

          oldest

          votes









          active

          oldest

          votes






          active

          oldest

          votes








          up vote
          24
          down vote



          accepted










          I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



          Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






          share|improve this answer




















          • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago






          • 2




            Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
            – Nick Alexeev♦
            20 hours ago










          • Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
            – Michel Keijzers
            8 hours ago














          up vote
          24
          down vote



          accepted










          I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



          Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






          share|improve this answer




















          • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago






          • 2




            Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
            – Nick Alexeev♦
            20 hours ago










          • Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
            – Michel Keijzers
            8 hours ago












          up vote
          24
          down vote



          accepted







          up vote
          24
          down vote



          accepted






          I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



          Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






          share|improve this answer












          I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



          Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 22 hours ago









          Peter Bennett

          35.2k12662




          35.2k12662











          • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago






          • 2




            Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
            – Nick Alexeev♦
            20 hours ago










          • Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
            – Michel Keijzers
            8 hours ago
















          • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago






          • 2




            Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
            – Nick Alexeev♦
            20 hours ago










          • Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
            – Michel Keijzers
            8 hours ago















          I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
          – Michel Keijzers
          22 hours ago




          I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
          – Michel Keijzers
          22 hours ago




          2




          2




          Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
          – Nick Alexeev♦
          20 hours ago




          Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
          – Nick Alexeev♦
          20 hours ago












          Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
          – Michel Keijzers
          8 hours ago




          Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/…
          – Michel Keijzers
          8 hours ago












          up vote
          29
          down vote













          This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



          enter image description here



          Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



          Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






          share|improve this answer
















          • 2




            With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
            – Phil G
            22 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
            – user71659
            19 hours ago







          • 1




            I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
            – Spehro Pefhany
            14 hours ago






          • 1




            @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
            – Transistor
            12 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
            – Christian Lescuyer
            5 hours ago














          up vote
          29
          down vote













          This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



          enter image description here



          Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



          Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






          share|improve this answer
















          • 2




            With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
            – Phil G
            22 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
            – user71659
            19 hours ago







          • 1




            I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
            – Spehro Pefhany
            14 hours ago






          • 1




            @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
            – Transistor
            12 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
            – Christian Lescuyer
            5 hours ago












          up vote
          29
          down vote










          up vote
          29
          down vote









          This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



          enter image description here



          Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



          Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






          share|improve this answer












          This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



          enter image description here



          Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



          Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 22 hours ago









          Transistor

          75.4k573165




          75.4k573165







          • 2




            With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
            – Phil G
            22 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
            – user71659
            19 hours ago







          • 1




            I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
            – Spehro Pefhany
            14 hours ago






          • 1




            @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
            – Transistor
            12 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
            – Christian Lescuyer
            5 hours ago












          • 2




            With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
            – Phil G
            22 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
            – user71659
            19 hours ago







          • 1




            I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
            – Spehro Pefhany
            14 hours ago






          • 1




            @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
            – Transistor
            12 hours ago






          • 1




            @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
            – Christian Lescuyer
            5 hours ago







          2




          2




          With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
          – Phil G
          22 hours ago




          With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
          – Phil G
          22 hours ago




          1




          1




          @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
          – user71659
          19 hours ago





          @MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
          – user71659
          19 hours ago





          1




          1




          I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
          – Spehro Pefhany
          14 hours ago




          I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
          – Spehro Pefhany
          14 hours ago




          1




          1




          @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
          – Transistor
          12 hours ago




          @Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
          – Transistor
          12 hours ago




          1




          1




          @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
          – Christian Lescuyer
          5 hours ago




          @MichelKeijzers You don’t need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
          – Christian Lescuyer
          5 hours ago










          up vote
          11
          down vote













          You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






          share|improve this answer




















          • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago














          up vote
          11
          down vote













          You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






          share|improve this answer




















          • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago












          up vote
          11
          down vote










          up vote
          11
          down vote









          You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






          share|improve this answer












          You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 22 hours ago









          Phil G

          5016




          5016











          • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago
















          • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
            – Michel Keijzers
            22 hours ago















          Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
          – Michel Keijzers
          22 hours ago




          Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
          – Michel Keijzers
          22 hours ago










          up vote
          7
          down vote













          Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.



          For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.



          Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).






          share|improve this answer


























            up vote
            7
            down vote













            Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.



            For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.



            Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).






            share|improve this answer
























              up vote
              7
              down vote










              up vote
              7
              down vote









              Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.



              For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.



              Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).






              share|improve this answer














              Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200°C are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.



              For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.



              Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).







              share|improve this answer














              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer








              edited 14 hours ago

























              answered 14 hours ago









              Dmitry Grigoryev

              17.1k22772




              17.1k22772




















                  up vote
                  4
                  down vote













                  As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



                  Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



                  Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



                  Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.






                  share|improve this answer
























                    up vote
                    4
                    down vote













                    As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



                    Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



                    Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



                    Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.






                    share|improve this answer






















                      up vote
                      4
                      down vote










                      up vote
                      4
                      down vote









                      As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



                      Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



                      Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



                      Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.






                      share|improve this answer












                      As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



                      Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



                      Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



                      Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.







                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered 21 hours ago









                      Phil C

                      9861117




                      9861117




















                          up vote
                          4
                          down vote













                          My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.






                          share|improve this answer
























                            up vote
                            4
                            down vote













                            My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.






                            share|improve this answer






















                              up vote
                              4
                              down vote










                              up vote
                              4
                              down vote









                              My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.






                              share|improve this answer












                              My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.







                              share|improve this answer












                              share|improve this answer



                              share|improve this answer










                              answered 3 hours ago









                              user71659

                              3157




                              3157




















                                  up vote
                                  3
                                  down vote













                                  Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.






                                  share|improve this answer








                                  New contributor




                                  rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                  Check out our Code of Conduct.





















                                    up vote
                                    3
                                    down vote













                                    Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.






                                    share|improve this answer








                                    New contributor




                                    rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                    Check out our Code of Conduct.



















                                      up vote
                                      3
                                      down vote










                                      up vote
                                      3
                                      down vote









                                      Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.






                                      share|improve this answer








                                      New contributor




                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                      Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.







                                      share|improve this answer








                                      New contributor




                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                      share|improve this answer



                                      share|improve this answer






                                      New contributor




                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                      answered 8 hours ago









                                      rodeone2

                                      312




                                      312




                                      New contributor




                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.





                                      New contributor





                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.






                                      rodeone2 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                      Check out our Code of Conduct.




















                                          up vote
                                          0
                                          down vote













                                          Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.






                                          share|improve this answer










                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.













                                          • 2




                                            That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                            – chepner
                                            5 hours ago










                                          • Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                            – Matt
                                            2 hours ago














                                          up vote
                                          0
                                          down vote













                                          Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.






                                          share|improve this answer










                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.













                                          • 2




                                            That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                            – chepner
                                            5 hours ago










                                          • Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                            – Matt
                                            2 hours ago












                                          up vote
                                          0
                                          down vote










                                          up vote
                                          0
                                          down vote









                                          Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.






                                          share|improve this answer










                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                          Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.







                                          share|improve this answer










                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                          share|improve this answer



                                          share|improve this answer








                                          edited 10 hours ago









                                          Michel Keijzers

                                          5,03562255




                                          5,03562255






                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.









                                          answered 11 hours ago









                                          Matt

                                          91




                                          91




                                          New contributor




                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.





                                          New contributor





                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.






                                          Matt is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                                          Check out our Code of Conduct.







                                          • 2




                                            That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                            – chepner
                                            5 hours ago










                                          • Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                            – Matt
                                            2 hours ago












                                          • 2




                                            That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                            – chepner
                                            5 hours ago










                                          • Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                            – Matt
                                            2 hours ago







                                          2




                                          2




                                          That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                          – chepner
                                          5 hours ago




                                          That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
                                          – chepner
                                          5 hours ago












                                          Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                          – Matt
                                          2 hours ago




                                          Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
                                          – Matt
                                          2 hours ago

















                                           

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