Converting road single speed bike to 1x
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I have a very nice bike that I built from a vintage new steel frame, threadless bottom bracket (because of the french thread in the frame) and 110BCD crankset. It is currently mounted as single speed, and I would like to add a rear derailleur.
The dropout spread is 125mm and the current chainline measurement is 45mm.
I have many questions and try to evaluate the feasibility. I would like to keep as many parts as possible, in particular not change the bottom bracket because of the odd standard (and the fact the thread is in part damaged).
I am contemplating the SRAM 1x solutions, but I don't know if 11 speed compatible wheels will fit the 125mm dropouts.
I suppose I could pick a 9 or 10 speed wheel (would they fit?), and add a 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur, but I am not sure of the chain line that is required.
chainline
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up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a very nice bike that I built from a vintage new steel frame, threadless bottom bracket (because of the french thread in the frame) and 110BCD crankset. It is currently mounted as single speed, and I would like to add a rear derailleur.
The dropout spread is 125mm and the current chainline measurement is 45mm.
I have many questions and try to evaluate the feasibility. I would like to keep as many parts as possible, in particular not change the bottom bracket because of the odd standard (and the fact the thread is in part damaged).
I am contemplating the SRAM 1x solutions, but I don't know if 11 speed compatible wheels will fit the 125mm dropouts.
I suppose I could pick a 9 or 10 speed wheel (would they fit?), and add a 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur, but I am not sure of the chain line that is required.
chainline
New contributor
Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a very nice bike that I built from a vintage new steel frame, threadless bottom bracket (because of the french thread in the frame) and 110BCD crankset. It is currently mounted as single speed, and I would like to add a rear derailleur.
The dropout spread is 125mm and the current chainline measurement is 45mm.
I have many questions and try to evaluate the feasibility. I would like to keep as many parts as possible, in particular not change the bottom bracket because of the odd standard (and the fact the thread is in part damaged).
I am contemplating the SRAM 1x solutions, but I don't know if 11 speed compatible wheels will fit the 125mm dropouts.
I suppose I could pick a 9 or 10 speed wheel (would they fit?), and add a 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur, but I am not sure of the chain line that is required.
chainline
New contributor
I have a very nice bike that I built from a vintage new steel frame, threadless bottom bracket (because of the french thread in the frame) and 110BCD crankset. It is currently mounted as single speed, and I would like to add a rear derailleur.
The dropout spread is 125mm and the current chainline measurement is 45mm.
I have many questions and try to evaluate the feasibility. I would like to keep as many parts as possible, in particular not change the bottom bracket because of the odd standard (and the fact the thread is in part damaged).
I am contemplating the SRAM 1x solutions, but I don't know if 11 speed compatible wheels will fit the 125mm dropouts.
I suppose I could pick a 9 or 10 speed wheel (would they fit?), and add a 9 or 10 speed rear derailleur, but I am not sure of the chain line that is required.
chainline
chainline
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked 1 hour ago
takumar
1211
1211
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New contributor
Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago
add a comment |Â
Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago
Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago
Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
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Steel frame can be set out to accommodate a 135 mm rear hub without substantial effort (bear in mind that the dropouts will need to be realigned).
With a rear derailleur the chainline is not an issue (in my opinion) as long as it is not kept on the most outside cogs in the rear.
You can also play with the chainline by mounting another crankset (different offset) or changing the bottom bracket spindle (you mention that it is threadless, you don't say which type is it exactly, cartridge bearings vs cup and cone).
What is often an issue in such conversion (I personally dropped one frame and kept it as fixie because of that) is whether all the derailleur cable eyelets and shifter bosses are available. Also you'd need the derailleur hanger or a suitable adapter.
Have you considered internal gearing hubs? There are Sturmey-Archer or Shimano models widely available with up to 8 gears if I'm not mistaken.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Converting a single speed to a derailleur geared bike is generally considered unfeasible, or at least difficult and with some risks.
Single speed frames have a narrow rear hub width: 110 or 126mm. Modern road derailleur hubs with 7 or more sprockets are 130 or 135mm wide. Note that the width of the cassette does not change as the number of sprockets goes up, instead, the sprockets are spaced more closely together (although 11 speed systems do have slightly wider cassettes). Old 5 speed rear hubs did use the 126mm spacing.
The rear stays on a steel frame can be spread apart, and then the dropouts realigned to get a wider hub spacing. See Sheldon Brown's page on frame/hub spacing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
A new crankset will be required (or at least a bottom bracket with a longer spindle) to get correct chain-line. Also, you'll need clamp on cable housing bosses and an adapter plate that fits over the rear axle and drop-out to mount the derailleur.
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
Steel frame can be set out to accommodate a 135 mm rear hub without substantial effort (bear in mind that the dropouts will need to be realigned).
With a rear derailleur the chainline is not an issue (in my opinion) as long as it is not kept on the most outside cogs in the rear.
You can also play with the chainline by mounting another crankset (different offset) or changing the bottom bracket spindle (you mention that it is threadless, you don't say which type is it exactly, cartridge bearings vs cup and cone).
What is often an issue in such conversion (I personally dropped one frame and kept it as fixie because of that) is whether all the derailleur cable eyelets and shifter bosses are available. Also you'd need the derailleur hanger or a suitable adapter.
Have you considered internal gearing hubs? There are Sturmey-Archer or Shimano models widely available with up to 8 gears if I'm not mistaken.
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
Steel frame can be set out to accommodate a 135 mm rear hub without substantial effort (bear in mind that the dropouts will need to be realigned).
With a rear derailleur the chainline is not an issue (in my opinion) as long as it is not kept on the most outside cogs in the rear.
You can also play with the chainline by mounting another crankset (different offset) or changing the bottom bracket spindle (you mention that it is threadless, you don't say which type is it exactly, cartridge bearings vs cup and cone).
What is often an issue in such conversion (I personally dropped one frame and kept it as fixie because of that) is whether all the derailleur cable eyelets and shifter bosses are available. Also you'd need the derailleur hanger or a suitable adapter.
Have you considered internal gearing hubs? There are Sturmey-Archer or Shimano models widely available with up to 8 gears if I'm not mistaken.
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
Steel frame can be set out to accommodate a 135 mm rear hub without substantial effort (bear in mind that the dropouts will need to be realigned).
With a rear derailleur the chainline is not an issue (in my opinion) as long as it is not kept on the most outside cogs in the rear.
You can also play with the chainline by mounting another crankset (different offset) or changing the bottom bracket spindle (you mention that it is threadless, you don't say which type is it exactly, cartridge bearings vs cup and cone).
What is often an issue in such conversion (I personally dropped one frame and kept it as fixie because of that) is whether all the derailleur cable eyelets and shifter bosses are available. Also you'd need the derailleur hanger or a suitable adapter.
Have you considered internal gearing hubs? There are Sturmey-Archer or Shimano models widely available with up to 8 gears if I'm not mistaken.
Steel frame can be set out to accommodate a 135 mm rear hub without substantial effort (bear in mind that the dropouts will need to be realigned).
With a rear derailleur the chainline is not an issue (in my opinion) as long as it is not kept on the most outside cogs in the rear.
You can also play with the chainline by mounting another crankset (different offset) or changing the bottom bracket spindle (you mention that it is threadless, you don't say which type is it exactly, cartridge bearings vs cup and cone).
What is often an issue in such conversion (I personally dropped one frame and kept it as fixie because of that) is whether all the derailleur cable eyelets and shifter bosses are available. Also you'd need the derailleur hanger or a suitable adapter.
Have you considered internal gearing hubs? There are Sturmey-Archer or Shimano models widely available with up to 8 gears if I'm not mistaken.
answered 32 mins ago
Mike
2,089522
2,089522
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add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Converting a single speed to a derailleur geared bike is generally considered unfeasible, or at least difficult and with some risks.
Single speed frames have a narrow rear hub width: 110 or 126mm. Modern road derailleur hubs with 7 or more sprockets are 130 or 135mm wide. Note that the width of the cassette does not change as the number of sprockets goes up, instead, the sprockets are spaced more closely together (although 11 speed systems do have slightly wider cassettes). Old 5 speed rear hubs did use the 126mm spacing.
The rear stays on a steel frame can be spread apart, and then the dropouts realigned to get a wider hub spacing. See Sheldon Brown's page on frame/hub spacing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
A new crankset will be required (or at least a bottom bracket with a longer spindle) to get correct chain-line. Also, you'll need clamp on cable housing bosses and an adapter plate that fits over the rear axle and drop-out to mount the derailleur.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Converting a single speed to a derailleur geared bike is generally considered unfeasible, or at least difficult and with some risks.
Single speed frames have a narrow rear hub width: 110 or 126mm. Modern road derailleur hubs with 7 or more sprockets are 130 or 135mm wide. Note that the width of the cassette does not change as the number of sprockets goes up, instead, the sprockets are spaced more closely together (although 11 speed systems do have slightly wider cassettes). Old 5 speed rear hubs did use the 126mm spacing.
The rear stays on a steel frame can be spread apart, and then the dropouts realigned to get a wider hub spacing. See Sheldon Brown's page on frame/hub spacing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
A new crankset will be required (or at least a bottom bracket with a longer spindle) to get correct chain-line. Also, you'll need clamp on cable housing bosses and an adapter plate that fits over the rear axle and drop-out to mount the derailleur.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
Converting a single speed to a derailleur geared bike is generally considered unfeasible, or at least difficult and with some risks.
Single speed frames have a narrow rear hub width: 110 or 126mm. Modern road derailleur hubs with 7 or more sprockets are 130 or 135mm wide. Note that the width of the cassette does not change as the number of sprockets goes up, instead, the sprockets are spaced more closely together (although 11 speed systems do have slightly wider cassettes). Old 5 speed rear hubs did use the 126mm spacing.
The rear stays on a steel frame can be spread apart, and then the dropouts realigned to get a wider hub spacing. See Sheldon Brown's page on frame/hub spacing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
A new crankset will be required (or at least a bottom bracket with a longer spindle) to get correct chain-line. Also, you'll need clamp on cable housing bosses and an adapter plate that fits over the rear axle and drop-out to mount the derailleur.
Converting a single speed to a derailleur geared bike is generally considered unfeasible, or at least difficult and with some risks.
Single speed frames have a narrow rear hub width: 110 or 126mm. Modern road derailleur hubs with 7 or more sprockets are 130 or 135mm wide. Note that the width of the cassette does not change as the number of sprockets goes up, instead, the sprockets are spaced more closely together (although 11 speed systems do have slightly wider cassettes). Old 5 speed rear hubs did use the 126mm spacing.
The rear stays on a steel frame can be spread apart, and then the dropouts realigned to get a wider hub spacing. See Sheldon Brown's page on frame/hub spacing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html.
A new crankset will be required (or at least a bottom bracket with a longer spindle) to get correct chain-line. Also, you'll need clamp on cable housing bosses and an adapter plate that fits over the rear axle and drop-out to mount the derailleur.
answered 15 mins ago
Argenti Apparatus
25.9k23068
25.9k23068
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takumar is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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Have you considered using an internal gear hub instead? The problem to find one that fits your dropout width remains though, but you are spared from problems of mounting a derailleur.
â Grigory Rechistov
13 mins ago