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Why are my photos of the moon blurry?
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I have a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 28-300mm VR lens. I am an absolute newbie and I've been trying to capture a reasonably good picture of the moon. But no matter what I try, the pictures are never sharp.
I've tried mounting the camera (by the camera, not the lens) on a tripod, set the shutter release to remote or timer (2s) and tried taking several shots at varying shutter speeds (10s to 30s) and ISOs (1600 to 6400) with the maximum aperture (f/5.6 I believe) at 300mm. But no matter how I take the photo, the moon always looks a bit blurred.
I tried with VR turned on and off, on my lens. What am I doing wrong?
Any help is appreciated.
dslr moon nikon-d750
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
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up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 28-300mm VR lens. I am an absolute newbie and I've been trying to capture a reasonably good picture of the moon. But no matter what I try, the pictures are never sharp.
I've tried mounting the camera (by the camera, not the lens) on a tripod, set the shutter release to remote or timer (2s) and tried taking several shots at varying shutter speeds (10s to 30s) and ISOs (1600 to 6400) with the maximum aperture (f/5.6 I believe) at 300mm. But no matter how I take the photo, the moon always looks a bit blurred.
I tried with VR turned on and off, on my lens. What am I doing wrong?
Any help is appreciated.
dslr moon nikon-d750
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
1
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 28-300mm VR lens. I am an absolute newbie and I've been trying to capture a reasonably good picture of the moon. But no matter what I try, the pictures are never sharp.
I've tried mounting the camera (by the camera, not the lens) on a tripod, set the shutter release to remote or timer (2s) and tried taking several shots at varying shutter speeds (10s to 30s) and ISOs (1600 to 6400) with the maximum aperture (f/5.6 I believe) at 300mm. But no matter how I take the photo, the moon always looks a bit blurred.
I tried with VR turned on and off, on my lens. What am I doing wrong?
Any help is appreciated.
dslr moon nikon-d750
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I have a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 28-300mm VR lens. I am an absolute newbie and I've been trying to capture a reasonably good picture of the moon. But no matter what I try, the pictures are never sharp.
I've tried mounting the camera (by the camera, not the lens) on a tripod, set the shutter release to remote or timer (2s) and tried taking several shots at varying shutter speeds (10s to 30s) and ISOs (1600 to 6400) with the maximum aperture (f/5.6 I believe) at 300mm. But no matter how I take the photo, the moon always looks a bit blurred.
I tried with VR turned on and off, on my lens. What am I doing wrong?
Any help is appreciated.
dslr moon nikon-d750
dslr moon nikon-d750
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
asked 5 hours ago
yazz
61
61
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
yazz is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
1
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago
add a comment |Â
2
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
1
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago
2
2
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
1
1
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Your exposure settings will grossly overexpose the moon. Remember, the illuminated parts of the moon are in direct sunlight! Allowing for the moon's albedo, start with about ISO 200, f/8, and 1/125 second or equivalent. Similar to the 'Sunny 16' rule of thumb, the 'Lunar 11' rule of thumb says to use a shutter time of 1/ISO with f/11. I reality, about 1/3 stop darker than that is about right.
ISO 200, f/8, 1/125. Tripod, cable release, mirror lockup. The dot on the right is the planet Jupiter. Captured 31 January, 2013 when Jupiter passed within less than 1° of the moon.
Additionally, the moon moves relative to the same spot on the earth's surface at a rate that works out to be the full diameter of the moon every couple of minutes! Anything exposed longer than about one second will show the moon's motion when a 300mm lens is used with an APS-C camera if the display size is about 8x10 inches and before an additional cropping is done. Since cropping and displaying an image at the same size enlarges the image, it also enlarges any blur present. If you are pixel peeping on a large monitor, your shutter times must be much shorter to not see any blur due to the motion of the moon relative to the earth.
ISO 100, f/8, 1/200. Canon EOS 7D + Kenko C-AF 2X Teleplus Pro 300 + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS. Even with the atmospheric conditions in high summer for the Northern Hemisphere, good glass, careful manual focusing, and proper stabilization (sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, remote cable release) can catch good images of the moon. Captured 10 July, 2012.
Beyond that, all lenses and cameras have their resolution limits. A "superzoom" lens such as your 28-300mm gives up the best possible image quality in exchange for being versatile by offering a wide range of focal lengths. Such lenses are known to be fairly soft at the longest telephoto end of their focal length range.
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
It could be that the atmosphere or the "seeing" in your part of the world is creating the loss in sharpness. Or it could just be your lens. Super-zoom lenses like your 28-300 are notorious for not being good optically. Or, maybe your lens is just fine. Maybe you're shooting in RAW and you're not adding sharpening to the image?
You mention your exposure ranges from 10s-30s at f/5.6 at ISO 1600-6,400. I think this is probably your problem. Moon exposures are counterintuitive in that because it's night time, people think that they need long exposures at high ISO settings. This is simply not true. While scenes lit by the Moon are dim and require long exposures, the Moon itself is the 2nd brightest object in the sky, next to the Sun. In effect you are photographing sunlight which means that your ISO should be at 100, your exposure should be about 1/125 at f/5.6. Based upon the details of your question, you are severely overexposing the scene.
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Your exposures could be about correct for the Milky Way stars (ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30 seconds, except the Earth will rotate in 30 seconds and will make star trails on a fixed mount).
But the moon is illuminated by our same sunlight, and is about the same exposure as daylight here on earth. Assuming full moon, maybe ISO 100, f/8, 1/320 second. Reasonably normal daylight exposure. No blurring issues. Our astronauts on the moon could use normal daylight exposures.
But the lesser phases of moon will need more. 2 seconds f/8 could be correct a couple of days from the new moon, and maybe ISO 100 f/8 1/60 second for a quarter moon. The moon reflects 12%, so it is slightly darker than an 18% card.. It should NOT be white.
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
add a comment |Â
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
Your exposure settings will grossly overexpose the moon. Remember, the illuminated parts of the moon are in direct sunlight! Allowing for the moon's albedo, start with about ISO 200, f/8, and 1/125 second or equivalent. Similar to the 'Sunny 16' rule of thumb, the 'Lunar 11' rule of thumb says to use a shutter time of 1/ISO with f/11. I reality, about 1/3 stop darker than that is about right.
ISO 200, f/8, 1/125. Tripod, cable release, mirror lockup. The dot on the right is the planet Jupiter. Captured 31 January, 2013 when Jupiter passed within less than 1° of the moon.
Additionally, the moon moves relative to the same spot on the earth's surface at a rate that works out to be the full diameter of the moon every couple of minutes! Anything exposed longer than about one second will show the moon's motion when a 300mm lens is used with an APS-C camera if the display size is about 8x10 inches and before an additional cropping is done. Since cropping and displaying an image at the same size enlarges the image, it also enlarges any blur present. If you are pixel peeping on a large monitor, your shutter times must be much shorter to not see any blur due to the motion of the moon relative to the earth.
ISO 100, f/8, 1/200. Canon EOS 7D + Kenko C-AF 2X Teleplus Pro 300 + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS. Even with the atmospheric conditions in high summer for the Northern Hemisphere, good glass, careful manual focusing, and proper stabilization (sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, remote cable release) can catch good images of the moon. Captured 10 July, 2012.
Beyond that, all lenses and cameras have their resolution limits. A "superzoom" lens such as your 28-300mm gives up the best possible image quality in exchange for being versatile by offering a wide range of focal lengths. Such lenses are known to be fairly soft at the longest telephoto end of their focal length range.
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Your exposure settings will grossly overexpose the moon. Remember, the illuminated parts of the moon are in direct sunlight! Allowing for the moon's albedo, start with about ISO 200, f/8, and 1/125 second or equivalent. Similar to the 'Sunny 16' rule of thumb, the 'Lunar 11' rule of thumb says to use a shutter time of 1/ISO with f/11. I reality, about 1/3 stop darker than that is about right.
ISO 200, f/8, 1/125. Tripod, cable release, mirror lockup. The dot on the right is the planet Jupiter. Captured 31 January, 2013 when Jupiter passed within less than 1° of the moon.
Additionally, the moon moves relative to the same spot on the earth's surface at a rate that works out to be the full diameter of the moon every couple of minutes! Anything exposed longer than about one second will show the moon's motion when a 300mm lens is used with an APS-C camera if the display size is about 8x10 inches and before an additional cropping is done. Since cropping and displaying an image at the same size enlarges the image, it also enlarges any blur present. If you are pixel peeping on a large monitor, your shutter times must be much shorter to not see any blur due to the motion of the moon relative to the earth.
ISO 100, f/8, 1/200. Canon EOS 7D + Kenko C-AF 2X Teleplus Pro 300 + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS. Even with the atmospheric conditions in high summer for the Northern Hemisphere, good glass, careful manual focusing, and proper stabilization (sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, remote cable release) can catch good images of the moon. Captured 10 July, 2012.
Beyond that, all lenses and cameras have their resolution limits. A "superzoom" lens such as your 28-300mm gives up the best possible image quality in exchange for being versatile by offering a wide range of focal lengths. Such lenses are known to be fairly soft at the longest telephoto end of their focal length range.
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
Your exposure settings will grossly overexpose the moon. Remember, the illuminated parts of the moon are in direct sunlight! Allowing for the moon's albedo, start with about ISO 200, f/8, and 1/125 second or equivalent. Similar to the 'Sunny 16' rule of thumb, the 'Lunar 11' rule of thumb says to use a shutter time of 1/ISO with f/11. I reality, about 1/3 stop darker than that is about right.
ISO 200, f/8, 1/125. Tripod, cable release, mirror lockup. The dot on the right is the planet Jupiter. Captured 31 January, 2013 when Jupiter passed within less than 1° of the moon.
Additionally, the moon moves relative to the same spot on the earth's surface at a rate that works out to be the full diameter of the moon every couple of minutes! Anything exposed longer than about one second will show the moon's motion when a 300mm lens is used with an APS-C camera if the display size is about 8x10 inches and before an additional cropping is done. Since cropping and displaying an image at the same size enlarges the image, it also enlarges any blur present. If you are pixel peeping on a large monitor, your shutter times must be much shorter to not see any blur due to the motion of the moon relative to the earth.
ISO 100, f/8, 1/200. Canon EOS 7D + Kenko C-AF 2X Teleplus Pro 300 + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS. Even with the atmospheric conditions in high summer for the Northern Hemisphere, good glass, careful manual focusing, and proper stabilization (sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, remote cable release) can catch good images of the moon. Captured 10 July, 2012.
Beyond that, all lenses and cameras have their resolution limits. A "superzoom" lens such as your 28-300mm gives up the best possible image quality in exchange for being versatile by offering a wide range of focal lengths. Such lenses are known to be fairly soft at the longest telephoto end of their focal length range.
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
Your exposure settings will grossly overexpose the moon. Remember, the illuminated parts of the moon are in direct sunlight! Allowing for the moon's albedo, start with about ISO 200, f/8, and 1/125 second or equivalent. Similar to the 'Sunny 16' rule of thumb, the 'Lunar 11' rule of thumb says to use a shutter time of 1/ISO with f/11. I reality, about 1/3 stop darker than that is about right.
ISO 200, f/8, 1/125. Tripod, cable release, mirror lockup. The dot on the right is the planet Jupiter. Captured 31 January, 2013 when Jupiter passed within less than 1° of the moon.
Additionally, the moon moves relative to the same spot on the earth's surface at a rate that works out to be the full diameter of the moon every couple of minutes! Anything exposed longer than about one second will show the moon's motion when a 300mm lens is used with an APS-C camera if the display size is about 8x10 inches and before an additional cropping is done. Since cropping and displaying an image at the same size enlarges the image, it also enlarges any blur present. If you are pixel peeping on a large monitor, your shutter times must be much shorter to not see any blur due to the motion of the moon relative to the earth.
ISO 100, f/8, 1/200. Canon EOS 7D + Kenko C-AF 2X Teleplus Pro 300 + EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L II IS. Even with the atmospheric conditions in high summer for the Northern Hemisphere, good glass, careful manual focusing, and proper stabilization (sturdy tripod, mirror lockup, remote cable release) can catch good images of the moon. Captured 10 July, 2012.
Beyond that, all lenses and cameras have their resolution limits. A "superzoom" lens such as your 28-300mm gives up the best possible image quality in exchange for being versatile by offering a wide range of focal lengths. Such lenses are known to be fairly soft at the longest telephoto end of their focal length range.
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
edited 5 mins ago
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
answered 4 hours ago
Michael Clark
122k7138343
122k7138343
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
It could be that the atmosphere or the "seeing" in your part of the world is creating the loss in sharpness. Or it could just be your lens. Super-zoom lenses like your 28-300 are notorious for not being good optically. Or, maybe your lens is just fine. Maybe you're shooting in RAW and you're not adding sharpening to the image?
You mention your exposure ranges from 10s-30s at f/5.6 at ISO 1600-6,400. I think this is probably your problem. Moon exposures are counterintuitive in that because it's night time, people think that they need long exposures at high ISO settings. This is simply not true. While scenes lit by the Moon are dim and require long exposures, the Moon itself is the 2nd brightest object in the sky, next to the Sun. In effect you are photographing sunlight which means that your ISO should be at 100, your exposure should be about 1/125 at f/5.6. Based upon the details of your question, you are severely overexposing the scene.
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
It could be that the atmosphere or the "seeing" in your part of the world is creating the loss in sharpness. Or it could just be your lens. Super-zoom lenses like your 28-300 are notorious for not being good optically. Or, maybe your lens is just fine. Maybe you're shooting in RAW and you're not adding sharpening to the image?
You mention your exposure ranges from 10s-30s at f/5.6 at ISO 1600-6,400. I think this is probably your problem. Moon exposures are counterintuitive in that because it's night time, people think that they need long exposures at high ISO settings. This is simply not true. While scenes lit by the Moon are dim and require long exposures, the Moon itself is the 2nd brightest object in the sky, next to the Sun. In effect you are photographing sunlight which means that your ISO should be at 100, your exposure should be about 1/125 at f/5.6. Based upon the details of your question, you are severely overexposing the scene.
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
It could be that the atmosphere or the "seeing" in your part of the world is creating the loss in sharpness. Or it could just be your lens. Super-zoom lenses like your 28-300 are notorious for not being good optically. Or, maybe your lens is just fine. Maybe you're shooting in RAW and you're not adding sharpening to the image?
You mention your exposure ranges from 10s-30s at f/5.6 at ISO 1600-6,400. I think this is probably your problem. Moon exposures are counterintuitive in that because it's night time, people think that they need long exposures at high ISO settings. This is simply not true. While scenes lit by the Moon are dim and require long exposures, the Moon itself is the 2nd brightest object in the sky, next to the Sun. In effect you are photographing sunlight which means that your ISO should be at 100, your exposure should be about 1/125 at f/5.6. Based upon the details of your question, you are severely overexposing the scene.
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
It could be that the atmosphere or the "seeing" in your part of the world is creating the loss in sharpness. Or it could just be your lens. Super-zoom lenses like your 28-300 are notorious for not being good optically. Or, maybe your lens is just fine. Maybe you're shooting in RAW and you're not adding sharpening to the image?
You mention your exposure ranges from 10s-30s at f/5.6 at ISO 1600-6,400. I think this is probably your problem. Moon exposures are counterintuitive in that because it's night time, people think that they need long exposures at high ISO settings. This is simply not true. While scenes lit by the Moon are dim and require long exposures, the Moon itself is the 2nd brightest object in the sky, next to the Sun. In effect you are photographing sunlight which means that your ISO should be at 100, your exposure should be about 1/125 at f/5.6. Based upon the details of your question, you are severely overexposing the scene.
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
answered 5 hours ago
frank
3143
3143
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Your exposures could be about correct for the Milky Way stars (ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30 seconds, except the Earth will rotate in 30 seconds and will make star trails on a fixed mount).
But the moon is illuminated by our same sunlight, and is about the same exposure as daylight here on earth. Assuming full moon, maybe ISO 100, f/8, 1/320 second. Reasonably normal daylight exposure. No blurring issues. Our astronauts on the moon could use normal daylight exposures.
But the lesser phases of moon will need more. 2 seconds f/8 could be correct a couple of days from the new moon, and maybe ISO 100 f/8 1/60 second for a quarter moon. The moon reflects 12%, so it is slightly darker than an 18% card.. It should NOT be white.
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Your exposures could be about correct for the Milky Way stars (ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30 seconds, except the Earth will rotate in 30 seconds and will make star trails on a fixed mount).
But the moon is illuminated by our same sunlight, and is about the same exposure as daylight here on earth. Assuming full moon, maybe ISO 100, f/8, 1/320 second. Reasonably normal daylight exposure. No blurring issues. Our astronauts on the moon could use normal daylight exposures.
But the lesser phases of moon will need more. 2 seconds f/8 could be correct a couple of days from the new moon, and maybe ISO 100 f/8 1/60 second for a quarter moon. The moon reflects 12%, so it is slightly darker than an 18% card.. It should NOT be white.
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Your exposures could be about correct for the Milky Way stars (ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30 seconds, except the Earth will rotate in 30 seconds and will make star trails on a fixed mount).
But the moon is illuminated by our same sunlight, and is about the same exposure as daylight here on earth. Assuming full moon, maybe ISO 100, f/8, 1/320 second. Reasonably normal daylight exposure. No blurring issues. Our astronauts on the moon could use normal daylight exposures.
But the lesser phases of moon will need more. 2 seconds f/8 could be correct a couple of days from the new moon, and maybe ISO 100 f/8 1/60 second for a quarter moon. The moon reflects 12%, so it is slightly darker than an 18% card.. It should NOT be white.
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
Your exposures could be about correct for the Milky Way stars (ISO 6400, f/2.8, 30 seconds, except the Earth will rotate in 30 seconds and will make star trails on a fixed mount).
But the moon is illuminated by our same sunlight, and is about the same exposure as daylight here on earth. Assuming full moon, maybe ISO 100, f/8, 1/320 second. Reasonably normal daylight exposure. No blurring issues. Our astronauts on the moon could use normal daylight exposures.
But the lesser phases of moon will need more. 2 seconds f/8 could be correct a couple of days from the new moon, and maybe ISO 100 f/8 1/60 second for a quarter moon. The moon reflects 12%, so it is slightly darker than an 18% card.. It should NOT be white.
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
answered 3 hours ago
WayneF
9,0681923
9,0681923
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
add a comment |Â
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
You should go out and try it as the moon varies. The full moon is frontal lighted, the quarter moon is side lighted, and the new moon is back lighted. This reflection efficiency varies. There is no one rule (dare to try it). Search Google for Moon Exposure Calculator. The three at the top (and a few others) have it right (it varies greatly with phase). Some links are superficial and incorrect, like your advice. The average albedo of moon is 12%. Gray cards are 18%, but reflective light meters are 12.5%. ISO 100 f/8 1/320 is 2/3 EV from EV 15, but 1/3 EV from Sunny 16. Etc.
– WayneF
40 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
<sigh> Been there, done that, and I can't buy it. Instead of trying to reason it, you seriously need to go look again (speaking of relatively high overhead on clear night). There are very many that know that would disagree with you. At minimum, you ought to at least explore the MANY web articles that explain photographic exposure of moon phase. Many are good, but agreed, many others are too superficial to even mention it, but there is all kinds on the web, some just like to talk.
– WayneF
18 mins ago
add a comment |Â
yazz is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
yazz is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
yazz is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
yazz is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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2
Possible duplicate of How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
– Hueco
5 hours ago
Hey yazz - welcome to photo.se! This question has been asked many times before, so I'm voting to close your question as a dupe. If you are still having issues after taking the advice from the linked question, then please post another question explaining what you still have questions on. Cheers!
– Hueco
5 hours ago
1
Related: What is the “Rule of 600†in astrophotography?
– scottbb
5 hours ago
Possible duplicate of How can I achieve more clarity in my photos of the moon?
– Michael Clark
4 hours ago