Using heat-set inserts with SLA printed part

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I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general?






sla







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  • Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago














up vote
2
down vote

favorite












I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general?






sla







share|improve this question







New contributor




Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.



















  • Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago












up vote
2
down vote

favorite









up vote
2
down vote

favorite











I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general?






sla







share|improve this question







New contributor




Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general?






sla




sla






share|improve this question







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Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









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asked 48 mins ago









Crazymoomin

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1113




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Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Crazymoomin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











  • Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago
















  • Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago















Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
– Carl Witthoft
4 mins ago




Why not go with a press-fit, plus a couple drops of epoxy if so inclined?
– Carl Witthoft
4 mins ago










1 Answer
1






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up vote
3
down vote













The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.






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  • OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
    – Crazymoomin
    35 mins ago











  • Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago











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1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes








up vote
3
down vote













The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.






share|improve this answer




















  • OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
    – Crazymoomin
    35 mins ago











  • Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago















up vote
3
down vote













The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.






share|improve this answer




















  • OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
    – Crazymoomin
    35 mins ago











  • Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago













up vote
3
down vote










up vote
3
down vote









The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.






share|improve this answer












The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a thermoset plastic, as opposed to the thermoplastic plastics used in FDM printing. What this means, is that it can not be melted. The reaction that hardens SLA materials is irreversible. If you heat up the plastic it won't melt, it will just burn (if it gets hot enough). What you're planning is a bad idea, and it won't work.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 43 mins ago









Tom van der Zanden

10.6k11743




10.6k11743











  • OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
    – Crazymoomin
    35 mins ago











  • Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago

















  • OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
    – Crazymoomin
    35 mins ago











  • Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
    – Carl Witthoft
    4 mins ago
















OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
– Crazymoomin
35 mins ago





OK, that's that idea out of the window, but thanks for the advice. I don't think there are any good alternatives for putting an insert in sadly, looks like I'll have to put the mount somewhere else (it's an old model and I really don't want to reprint it).
– Crazymoomin
35 mins ago













Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
– Carl Witthoft
4 mins ago





Well, there's an indirect solution: print the part with an oversize hole with a deliberately rough boundary . Then line the hole with some fresh plastic, insert the metal part, and heat to melt& fuse the new material into both the metal part and the boundary. Seems like a lot of work to me.
– Carl Witthoft
4 mins ago











Crazymoomin is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









 

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