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35mm for portraits
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Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?
portrait focal-length
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
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up vote
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Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?
portrait focal-length
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago
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up vote
2
down vote
favorite
up vote
2
down vote
favorite
Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?
portrait focal-length
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?
portrait focal-length
portrait focal-length
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
asked 2 hours ago
Brandon
1,29051428
1,29051428
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago
add a comment |Â
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.
The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).
We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.
For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.
But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.
You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.
Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.
Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:
- Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.
- Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.
- (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.
Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
 |Â
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up vote
1
down vote
I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!
There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!
You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.
Take a look at this google search.
Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.
You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.
But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
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up vote
0
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The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.
If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.
The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).
We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.
For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.
But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.
You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.
Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.
Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.
The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).
We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.
For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.
But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.
You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.
Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.
Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.
The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).
We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.
For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.
But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.
You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.
Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.
Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.
The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).
We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.
For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.
But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.
You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.
Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.
Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
answered 1 hour ago
WayneF
9,4061924
9,4061924
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
add a comment |Â
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
– Brandon
43 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
@Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
– Michael Clark
16 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:
- Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.
- Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.
- (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.
Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
1
down vote
Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:
- Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.
- Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.
- (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.
Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:
- Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.
- Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.
- (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.
Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:
- Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.
- Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.
- (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.
Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
answered 1 hour ago
flolilolilo
3,99411332
3,99411332
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
– Michael Clark
1 hour ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
@MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
– flolilolilo
54 mins ago
1
1
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
@flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
– Michael Clark
26 mins ago
1
1
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
@Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
– Michael Clark
24 mins ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
1
down vote
I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!
There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!
You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.
Take a look at this google search.
Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.
You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.
But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!
There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!
You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.
Take a look at this google search.
Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.
You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.
But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!
There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!
You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.
Take a look at this google search.
Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.
You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.
But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!
There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!
You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.
Take a look at this google search.
Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.
You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.
But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
edited 8 mins ago
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
answered 14 mins ago
Rafael
12.7k11838
12.7k11838
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.
If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.
If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.
If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.
If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
answered 1 hour ago
null
7,8071742
7,8071742
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
add a comment |Â
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
– Michael Clark
56 mins ago
add a comment |Â
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en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
39 mins ago