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Should I overlay or replace 3/8 inch drywall during my room update?
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I have a living room that I am looking to update. It currently has 1/4" Wall Paneling over 3/8" drywall. The drywall is in very good shape, but has not been taped. The house is from the 50's, so they used nails to attach the drywall to the studs. Those now have a layer of rust on them.
I could just tape and mud, but I am worried about the drywall being too thin. My other consideration is to put another layer or 1/4" over it. This would cover over the rusted nails, which have a tendency to pop, and give me a cleaner wall. If this is the recommendation I was also considering what attachment method: drywall adhesive or screws?
P.S. The room is getting new windows, so those will be adjusted as needed.
drywall
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
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up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I have a living room that I am looking to update. It currently has 1/4" Wall Paneling over 3/8" drywall. The drywall is in very good shape, but has not been taped. The house is from the 50's, so they used nails to attach the drywall to the studs. Those now have a layer of rust on them.
I could just tape and mud, but I am worried about the drywall being too thin. My other consideration is to put another layer or 1/4" over it. This would cover over the rusted nails, which have a tendency to pop, and give me a cleaner wall. If this is the recommendation I was also considering what attachment method: drywall adhesive or screws?
P.S. The room is getting new windows, so those will be adjusted as needed.
drywall
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
3
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I have a living room that I am looking to update. It currently has 1/4" Wall Paneling over 3/8" drywall. The drywall is in very good shape, but has not been taped. The house is from the 50's, so they used nails to attach the drywall to the studs. Those now have a layer of rust on them.
I could just tape and mud, but I am worried about the drywall being too thin. My other consideration is to put another layer or 1/4" over it. This would cover over the rusted nails, which have a tendency to pop, and give me a cleaner wall. If this is the recommendation I was also considering what attachment method: drywall adhesive or screws?
P.S. The room is getting new windows, so those will be adjusted as needed.
drywall
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I have a living room that I am looking to update. It currently has 1/4" Wall Paneling over 3/8" drywall. The drywall is in very good shape, but has not been taped. The house is from the 50's, so they used nails to attach the drywall to the studs. Those now have a layer of rust on them.
I could just tape and mud, but I am worried about the drywall being too thin. My other consideration is to put another layer or 1/4" over it. This would cover over the rusted nails, which have a tendency to pop, and give me a cleaner wall. If this is the recommendation I was also considering what attachment method: drywall adhesive or screws?
P.S. The room is getting new windows, so those will be adjusted as needed.
drywall
drywall
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
edited 23 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
41.4k452104
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
asked 4 hours ago
Poniatowski
161
161
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Poniatowski is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
3
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago
add a comment |Â
1
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
3
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago
1
1
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
3
3
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". Here's why I suggest it
- Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. Want to add some new outlets? Remove older wiring? Add some coaxial or Ethernet? Now's your chance. You said you were adding windows. You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down.
- 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that
- Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. There's no guesswork at studs.
As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. A few nails will hold the board up. Then I go back and add screws. Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later.
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You're right that 3/8 is too thin. It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy.
I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. It worked out just fine. If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4. Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay.
I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall).
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". Here's why I suggest it
- Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. Want to add some new outlets? Remove older wiring? Add some coaxial or Ethernet? Now's your chance. You said you were adding windows. You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down.
- 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that
- Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. There's no guesswork at studs.
As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. A few nails will hold the board up. Then I go back and add screws. Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later.
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". Here's why I suggest it
- Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. Want to add some new outlets? Remove older wiring? Add some coaxial or Ethernet? Now's your chance. You said you were adding windows. You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down.
- 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that
- Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. There's no guesswork at studs.
As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. A few nails will hold the board up. Then I go back and add screws. Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later.
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". Here's why I suggest it
- Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. Want to add some new outlets? Remove older wiring? Add some coaxial or Ethernet? Now's your chance. You said you were adding windows. You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down.
- 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that
- Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. There's no guesswork at studs.
As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. A few nails will hold the board up. Then I go back and add screws. Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later.
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". Here's why I suggest it
- Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. Want to add some new outlets? Remove older wiring? Add some coaxial or Ethernet? Now's your chance. You said you were adding windows. You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down.
- 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that
- Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. There's no guesswork at studs.
As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. A few nails will hold the board up. Then I go back and add screws. Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later.
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
answered 2 hours ago
Machavity
5,97311633
5,97311633
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
add a comment |Â
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
I was concerned with the 1/8 difference in thickness between original 3/8+1/4 wall and 1/2 “ new wall do you think it will cause any issues ie at door and window trim?
– Kris
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
You'll find almost everyone assumes you'll have 1/2" drywall (it is the most common thickness) so i would assume you'd have less trouble
– Machavity
2 hours ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
If your existing door and window jambs expect 5/8, use 5/8.
– isherwood
27 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You're right that 3/8 is too thin. It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy.
I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. It worked out just fine. If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4. Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay.
I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall).
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You're right that 3/8 is too thin. It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy.
I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. It worked out just fine. If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4. Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay.
I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall).
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
You're right that 3/8 is too thin. It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy.
I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. It worked out just fine. If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4. Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay.
I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall).
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
You're right that 3/8 is too thin. It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy.
I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. It worked out just fine. If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4. Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay.
I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall).
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
answered 25 mins ago
isherwood
41.4k452104
41.4k452104
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
Poniatowski is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Poniatowski is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Poniatowski is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Poniatowski is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
Take it down and install 5/8 drywall. Virtually no difference in cost. And it will look better. Only additional labor is removing the 3/8. This will give you an opportunity to evaluate the insulation and wiring inside the wall.
– Kris
3 hours ago
@Kris Why 5/8 drywall? 1/2" is the standard for walls, and ceilings here in Tennessee. 5/8" is about $2 more per sheet than 1/2". I do concur with replacing the 3/8 sheetrock however.
– BillWeckel
3 hours ago
3
@BillWeckel OP had a combined thickness of 5/8 originally therefore it will make sense to match that thickness to insure that profiles are maintained at door and window trim
– Kris
3 hours ago
Whatever you end up doing, please avoid breathing any of the dust from cutting or sanding or tearing out your 1950s drywall, likely has some asbestos in it
– freshop
4 mins ago