How do I connect the two cables entering a switch box for a light?

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I removed the original light fixture from the side wall which was not connected to a light switch but had a button that turned the light on and off on the fixture itself. I took the original wire in the wall and extended it further down the wall where I had made a new box for a light switch. From that new box I took a second cable and wired up the wall over the ceiling into a brand new light fixture. Now I have two separate cables at the swtich box to connect into a single light swtich. Since the single light switch has only two screws, how do I connect the double white and black cables to it?






switch







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  • Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
    – isherwood
    17 mins ago
















up vote
1
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I removed the original light fixture from the side wall which was not connected to a light switch but had a button that turned the light on and off on the fixture itself. I took the original wire in the wall and extended it further down the wall where I had made a new box for a light switch. From that new box I took a second cable and wired up the wall over the ceiling into a brand new light fixture. Now I have two separate cables at the swtich box to connect into a single light swtich. Since the single light switch has only two screws, how do I connect the double white and black cables to it?






switch







share|improve this question









New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.



















  • Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
    – isherwood
    17 mins ago












up vote
1
down vote

favorite









up vote
1
down vote

favorite











I removed the original light fixture from the side wall which was not connected to a light switch but had a button that turned the light on and off on the fixture itself. I took the original wire in the wall and extended it further down the wall where I had made a new box for a light switch. From that new box I took a second cable and wired up the wall over the ceiling into a brand new light fixture. Now I have two separate cables at the swtich box to connect into a single light swtich. Since the single light switch has only two screws, how do I connect the double white and black cables to it?






switch







share|improve this question









New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I removed the original light fixture from the side wall which was not connected to a light switch but had a button that turned the light on and off on the fixture itself. I took the original wire in the wall and extended it further down the wall where I had made a new box for a light switch. From that new box I took a second cable and wired up the wall over the ceiling into a brand new light fixture. Now I have two separate cables at the swtich box to connect into a single light swtich. Since the single light switch has only two screws, how do I connect the double white and black cables to it?






switch




switch






share|improve this question









New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 22 mins ago









isherwood

41.2k451103




41.2k451103






New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 6 hours ago









Jake

61




61




New contributor




Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Jake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











  • Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
    – isherwood
    17 mins ago
















  • Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
    – isherwood
    17 mins ago















Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
– isherwood
17 mins ago




Welcome, Jake. Please take the tour to understand what's expected of you with regard to your question.
– isherwood
17 mins ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
2
down vote













Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector.






share|improve this answer




















  • So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
    – Jake
    5 hours ago










  • To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
    – batsplatsterson
    5 hours ago






  • 2




    I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago

















up vote
1
down vote













Switch Loop



The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. So I'll try:



  • Originally you had hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture.

  • Now you have TWO cables:

    • hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the panel to the switch

    • black and white going from the switch to the fixture.


  • What you actually need are:

    • hot from the panel to the switch

    • switched hot from the switch to the fixture

    • neutral from the fixture to the panel


Here is what you do:




  • hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw.


  • switched hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner.


  • neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. Do not connect them to the switch.

The switched hot does not need to be black. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK.



The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together.



Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires).






share|improve this answer






















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago






  • 1




    I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago

















up vote
0
down vote













Try a pigtail. I have attached a picture. Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture.
enter image description here



Good luck






share|improve this answer




















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago










  • That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago











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3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes








3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes








up vote
2
down vote













Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector.






share|improve this answer




















  • So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
    – Jake
    5 hours ago










  • To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
    – batsplatsterson
    5 hours ago






  • 2




    I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago














up vote
2
down vote













Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector.






share|improve this answer




















  • So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
    – Jake
    5 hours ago










  • To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
    – batsplatsterson
    5 hours ago






  • 2




    I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago












up vote
2
down vote










up vote
2
down vote









Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector.






share|improve this answer












Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 5 hours ago









batsplatsterson

5,7171020




5,7171020











  • So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
    – Jake
    5 hours ago










  • To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
    – batsplatsterson
    5 hours ago






  • 2




    I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago
















  • So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
    – Jake
    5 hours ago










  • To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
    – batsplatsterson
    5 hours ago






  • 2




    I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago















So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
– Jake
5 hours ago




So to confirm, each black go on each screw and the whites are spliced into the nut?
– Jake
5 hours ago












To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
– batsplatsterson
5 hours ago




To be perfectly clear - the whites do not touch the switch; they are just spliced to each other with a wire nut.
– batsplatsterson
5 hours ago




2




2




I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
– Jake
4 hours ago




I connected the blacks to each screw like you mentioned and spliced the whites into a nut. The switch now works perfectly. Thank you sir!!
– Jake
4 hours ago












up vote
1
down vote













Switch Loop



The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. So I'll try:



  • Originally you had hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture.

  • Now you have TWO cables:

    • hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the panel to the switch

    • black and white going from the switch to the fixture.


  • What you actually need are:

    • hot from the panel to the switch

    • switched hot from the switch to the fixture

    • neutral from the fixture to the panel


Here is what you do:




  • hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw.


  • switched hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner.


  • neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. Do not connect them to the switch.

The switched hot does not need to be black. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK.



The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together.



Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires).






share|improve this answer






















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago






  • 1




    I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago














up vote
1
down vote













Switch Loop



The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. So I'll try:



  • Originally you had hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture.

  • Now you have TWO cables:

    • hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the panel to the switch

    • black and white going from the switch to the fixture.


  • What you actually need are:

    • hot from the panel to the switch

    • switched hot from the switch to the fixture

    • neutral from the fixture to the panel


Here is what you do:




  • hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw.


  • switched hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner.


  • neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. Do not connect them to the switch.

The switched hot does not need to be black. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK.



The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together.



Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires).






share|improve this answer






















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago






  • 1




    I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago












up vote
1
down vote










up vote
1
down vote









Switch Loop



The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. So I'll try:



  • Originally you had hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture.

  • Now you have TWO cables:

    • hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the panel to the switch

    • black and white going from the switch to the fixture.


  • What you actually need are:

    • hot from the panel to the switch

    • switched hot from the switch to the fixture

    • neutral from the fixture to the panel


Here is what you do:




  • hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw.


  • switched hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner.


  • neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. Do not connect them to the switch.

The switched hot does not need to be black. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK.



The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together.



Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires).






share|improve this answer














Switch Loop



The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. So I'll try:



  • Originally you had hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture.

  • Now you have TWO cables:

    • hot (black) and neutral (white) going from the panel to the switch

    • black and white going from the switch to the fixture.


  • What you actually need are:

    • hot from the panel to the switch

    • switched hot from the switch to the fixture

    • neutral from the fixture to the panel


Here is what you do:




  • hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw.


  • switched hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner.


  • neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. Do not connect them to the switch.

The switched hot does not need to be black. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK.



The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together.



Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires).







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 27 mins ago

























answered 5 hours ago









manassehkatz

3,471419




3,471419











  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago






  • 1




    I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago
















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago






  • 1




    I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago















Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
– Jake
4 hours ago




Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
– Jake
4 hours ago




1




1




I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
– Harper
2 hours ago




I prefer to mark switched-hot wires red, to denote their different function.
– Harper
2 hours ago










up vote
0
down vote













Try a pigtail. I have attached a picture. Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture.
enter image description here



Good luck






share|improve this answer




















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago










  • That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago















up vote
0
down vote













Try a pigtail. I have attached a picture. Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture.
enter image description here



Good luck






share|improve this answer




















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago










  • That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago













up vote
0
down vote










up vote
0
down vote









Try a pigtail. I have attached a picture. Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture.
enter image description here



Good luck






share|improve this answer












Try a pigtail. I have attached a picture. Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture.
enter image description here



Good luck







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 5 hours ago









Retired Master Electrician

7,486420




7,486420











  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago










  • That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago

















  • Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
    – Jake
    4 hours ago










  • That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
    – Harper
    2 hours ago
















Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
– Jake
4 hours ago




Thank you sir. I tried the methode in the first post and worked like a charm. Thank you again for your post!
– Jake
4 hours ago












That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
– Harper
2 hours ago





That doesn't really make sense. He's not wiring a receptacle or smart switch and I don't see call for a pigtail here. Well, for the ground, of course, so there's that.
– Harper
2 hours ago











Jake is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









 

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