Dimmer and switch connected to outlet to always hot
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I have a dimmer + switch that is connected to an outlet on the other side of the room. That outlet is where I'd like to plug in my TV, and using that outlet specifically makes a buzzing sound come out of the TV. So, I'd like to wire it to be always hot and replace the faceplate with a dummy plate.
Picture is attached.
My understanding is that I can take out the two black wires that go into the switch, use a wire nut to connect them, and I'm good. What do I do with the ground (green) wire? The dummy plate won't have anything metal to connect it to.
electrical
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up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have a dimmer + switch that is connected to an outlet on the other side of the room. That outlet is where I'd like to plug in my TV, and using that outlet specifically makes a buzzing sound come out of the TV. So, I'd like to wire it to be always hot and replace the faceplate with a dummy plate.
Picture is attached.
My understanding is that I can take out the two black wires that go into the switch, use a wire nut to connect them, and I'm good. What do I do with the ground (green) wire? The dummy plate won't have anything metal to connect it to.
electrical
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have a dimmer + switch that is connected to an outlet on the other side of the room. That outlet is where I'd like to plug in my TV, and using that outlet specifically makes a buzzing sound come out of the TV. So, I'd like to wire it to be always hot and replace the faceplate with a dummy plate.
Picture is attached.
My understanding is that I can take out the two black wires that go into the switch, use a wire nut to connect them, and I'm good. What do I do with the ground (green) wire? The dummy plate won't have anything metal to connect it to.
electrical
I have a dimmer + switch that is connected to an outlet on the other side of the room. That outlet is where I'd like to plug in my TV, and using that outlet specifically makes a buzzing sound come out of the TV. So, I'd like to wire it to be always hot and replace the faceplate with a dummy plate.
Picture is attached.
My understanding is that I can take out the two black wires that go into the switch, use a wire nut to connect them, and I'm good. What do I do with the ground (green) wire? The dummy plate won't have anything metal to connect it to.
electrical
asked Aug 10 at 3:10
poisedsquirrel
82
82
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
Simply nut off the green pigtail by itself
Since there's nothing for the ground pigtail to connect to once the dimmer is replaced by a blank faceplate, simply cap it off with a wirenut.
That dimmer should not have been there to begin with
Dimming a standard wall receptacle violates NEC 404.14(E):
(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
and 406.15:
406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
Your TV is taking a dim view of being dimmed
The dimmer is also what is responsible for the buzzing sound coming out of your TV due to the mains waveform being modified by the dimmer, even at its maximum setting.
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
add a comment |Â
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
Simply nut off the green pigtail by itself
Since there's nothing for the ground pigtail to connect to once the dimmer is replaced by a blank faceplate, simply cap it off with a wirenut.
That dimmer should not have been there to begin with
Dimming a standard wall receptacle violates NEC 404.14(E):
(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
and 406.15:
406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
Your TV is taking a dim view of being dimmed
The dimmer is also what is responsible for the buzzing sound coming out of your TV due to the mains waveform being modified by the dimmer, even at its maximum setting.
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
Simply nut off the green pigtail by itself
Since there's nothing for the ground pigtail to connect to once the dimmer is replaced by a blank faceplate, simply cap it off with a wirenut.
That dimmer should not have been there to begin with
Dimming a standard wall receptacle violates NEC 404.14(E):
(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
and 406.15:
406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
Your TV is taking a dim view of being dimmed
The dimmer is also what is responsible for the buzzing sound coming out of your TV due to the mains waveform being modified by the dimmer, even at its maximum setting.
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
up vote
3
down vote
accepted
Simply nut off the green pigtail by itself
Since there's nothing for the ground pigtail to connect to once the dimmer is replaced by a blank faceplate, simply cap it off with a wirenut.
That dimmer should not have been there to begin with
Dimming a standard wall receptacle violates NEC 404.14(E):
(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
and 406.15:
406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
Your TV is taking a dim view of being dimmed
The dimmer is also what is responsible for the buzzing sound coming out of your TV due to the mains waveform being modified by the dimmer, even at its maximum setting.
Simply nut off the green pigtail by itself
Since there's nothing for the ground pigtail to connect to once the dimmer is replaced by a blank faceplate, simply cap it off with a wirenut.
That dimmer should not have been there to begin with
Dimming a standard wall receptacle violates NEC 404.14(E):
(E) Dimmer Switches. General-use dimmer switches shall
be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and
installed accordingly.
and 406.15:
406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer
unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard
configuration type that is specifically listed and identified
for each such unique combination.
Your TV is taking a dim view of being dimmed
The dimmer is also what is responsible for the buzzing sound coming out of your TV due to the mains waveform being modified by the dimmer, even at its maximum setting.
answered Aug 10 at 3:30
ThreePhaseEel
26.7k104386
26.7k104386
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
add a comment |Â
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
Thanks. Took care of this this weekend, and everything went perfectly. Using a multimeter, the max voltage coming out of the outlet (with dimmer attached) was 95-100v, and after was 120v like the other outlets in the room. No more buzzing.
â poisedsquirrel
Aug 13 at 15:04
add a comment |Â
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