Wood filler for rotten top of post
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The top of this railing post is rotted and the post is not easy to replace. Luckily the rest of the post seems solid. What kind of wood filler product can I use to fill the rotted out holes before painting?
I understand that it wonâÂÂt last forever. If it can last a couple of years, IâÂÂd be satisfied.
wood-filler
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up vote
5
down vote
favorite
The top of this railing post is rotted and the post is not easy to replace. Luckily the rest of the post seems solid. What kind of wood filler product can I use to fill the rotted out holes before painting?
I understand that it wonâÂÂt last forever. If it can last a couple of years, IâÂÂd be satisfied.
wood-filler
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
favorite
up vote
5
down vote
favorite
The top of this railing post is rotted and the post is not easy to replace. Luckily the rest of the post seems solid. What kind of wood filler product can I use to fill the rotted out holes before painting?
I understand that it wonâÂÂt last forever. If it can last a couple of years, IâÂÂd be satisfied.
wood-filler
The top of this railing post is rotted and the post is not easy to replace. Luckily the rest of the post seems solid. What kind of wood filler product can I use to fill the rotted out holes before painting?
I understand that it wonâÂÂt last forever. If it can last a couple of years, IâÂÂd be satisfied.
wood-filler
asked Aug 25 at 14:03
Vebjorn Ljosa
6,961144780
6,961144780
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
9
down vote
accepted
Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there:
I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged wood is impracticable.
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood.
This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
9
down vote
accepted
Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there:
I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged wood is impracticable.
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
add a comment |Â
up vote
9
down vote
accepted
Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there:
I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged wood is impracticable.
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
add a comment |Â
up vote
9
down vote
accepted
up vote
9
down vote
accepted
Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there:
I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged wood is impracticable.
Use a high-performance 2-part wood filler. It's like automotive body filler but sets a little slower and is easy to plane/form/sand smooth after it sets. This is one brand that I like but there are many brands out there:
I use a "cheese grater" style plane (Surform) to get it flat, then sand smooth. Works great for repair work when replacement of damaged wood is impracticable.
answered Aug 25 at 14:45
Jimmy Fix-it
19.7k1029
19.7k1029
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
add a comment |Â
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
3
3
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
Additional tip... there's a point in the curing cycle of all of these 2 part products (bondo, etc) when they're firm enough to slice with a knife or surform. You can use this to your advantage by slicing close to the finish surface and reducing the amount of sanding you need to do.
â Aloysius Defenestrate
Aug 25 at 15:46
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood.
This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood.
This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
up vote
5
down vote
Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood.
This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.
Git-Rot is a product specifically made for this type of problem. While you should still clear out rotted wood as best you can, Git-Rot pours in as a thin epoxy and saturates the rotted wood you can't remove, soaking imto the good wood.
This gives you a solid foundation to apply an epoxy (2-part) wood filler of your choice.
answered Aug 25 at 18:07
Harper
54.9k332112
54.9k332112
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
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