Is it a good time to replace my used car
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
We have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 105,000 miles that we purchased in 2011. We have made many repairs such as replacing the transmission, repairing the radiator, heating and AC system, thermostat, belt, rotors and brake pads, alternator, gaskets, and we are now facing an $800 repair for the fuel tank.
The average cost of repair has been about $1470 per year since the beginning of 2015 if I include the pending $800 cost to repair the fuel tank. The transmission disproportionately weighted the average since it cost $2000.
Since we have a good credit rating, at a cost of about $1470 per year for repairs for this car, does it make sense to get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car? I am asking about this from a cost perspective and ignoring any other advantages that a new car may offer.
loans car financing
New contributor
 |Â
show 4 more comments
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
We have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 105,000 miles that we purchased in 2011. We have made many repairs such as replacing the transmission, repairing the radiator, heating and AC system, thermostat, belt, rotors and brake pads, alternator, gaskets, and we are now facing an $800 repair for the fuel tank.
The average cost of repair has been about $1470 per year since the beginning of 2015 if I include the pending $800 cost to repair the fuel tank. The transmission disproportionately weighted the average since it cost $2000.
Since we have a good credit rating, at a cost of about $1470 per year for repairs for this car, does it make sense to get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car? I am asking about this from a cost perspective and ignoring any other advantages that a new car may offer.
loans car financing
New contributor
2
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
1
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
3
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
1
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
4
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday
 |Â
show 4 more comments
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
up vote
17
down vote
favorite
We have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 105,000 miles that we purchased in 2011. We have made many repairs such as replacing the transmission, repairing the radiator, heating and AC system, thermostat, belt, rotors and brake pads, alternator, gaskets, and we are now facing an $800 repair for the fuel tank.
The average cost of repair has been about $1470 per year since the beginning of 2015 if I include the pending $800 cost to repair the fuel tank. The transmission disproportionately weighted the average since it cost $2000.
Since we have a good credit rating, at a cost of about $1470 per year for repairs for this car, does it make sense to get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car? I am asking about this from a cost perspective and ignoring any other advantages that a new car may offer.
loans car financing
New contributor
We have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 105,000 miles that we purchased in 2011. We have made many repairs such as replacing the transmission, repairing the radiator, heating and AC system, thermostat, belt, rotors and brake pads, alternator, gaskets, and we are now facing an $800 repair for the fuel tank.
The average cost of repair has been about $1470 per year since the beginning of 2015 if I include the pending $800 cost to repair the fuel tank. The transmission disproportionately weighted the average since it cost $2000.
Since we have a good credit rating, at a cost of about $1470 per year for repairs for this car, does it make sense to get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car? I am asking about this from a cost perspective and ignoring any other advantages that a new car may offer.
loans car financing
loans car financing
New contributor
New contributor
edited 9 mins ago
stannius
2,5771923
2,5771923
New contributor
asked yesterday
agblt
8816
8816
New contributor
New contributor
2
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
1
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
3
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
1
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
4
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday
 |Â
show 4 more comments
2
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
1
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
3
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
1
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
4
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
2
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
1
1
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
3
3
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
1
1
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
4
4
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday
 |Â
show 4 more comments
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
up vote
27
down vote
accepted
While ultimately this is a matter of opinion, the major factors in this decision are the cost of what you'll replace it with and how important reliable transportation is to you.
$1470/year is not an incredible sum to keep a car on the road. Any newer car will also have maintenance and repair costs, higher insurance cost (most likely) and either require a significant cash outlay or new monthly car payments.
You've also hit one of the biggest repairs in the transmission, a rebuilt transmission should last at least 30k miles. So barring complete engine failure you could have a few more years of relatively low total cost of ownership. I'd probably have a mechanic inspect it and give you an idea of how much you might have to spend in the near future or how likely the car is to last you a while longer.
Then it's just a matter of deciding if the extra costs of something newer are worth it at this point, or if it makes sense to keep your paid off car kicking along.
Leasing is typically not a great option financially, buying a 2-3 year old used car tends to be the sweet spot, many of which still have time left on the manufacturers warranty which doesn't cover everything typically but can help with the big ticket items.
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
 |Â
show 8 more comments
up vote
8
down vote
Here's one option - figure out how much of a car payment you can afford, and start saving that today. Take your repair costs out of that fund. Continue saving until you have enough to and buy a used car with cash.
I would not lease. Leasing is a way to make expensive cars affordable for a short period of time, but you get nothing else in return (it is essentially renting the car).
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
7
down vote
Cars are certainly a money suck, but sometimes the cost to the individual is well hidden. The most common and costly example of this is the loss of value when one purchases a new car. One can expect to lose about 5k per year (minimum) when one purchases a new car. More would be lost if that purchase is financed. In comparison, 1500/year is "small potatoes".
IMHO it is foolish to buy a new car without significant assets. The growth of those assets counteract the depreciation one experiences when owning a new car. A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord.
IMHO it is also foolish to obtain a loan for a car. Sure some people play the interest arbitrage game where they could pay cash but opt to finance because of a low teaser rate. If you have the full amount in savings and can earn more than the car loan, I guess I am okay with it, but that situation is mostly uncommon.
So how much money do you have to buy a different car? That would really dictate the answer. If you have 10K saved, I would fix your car for the $800, sell it and buy something newer. If you have less, then I would be tempted to keep your current car. Buying something for less may cause you to inherit a different set of problems. You might come across a really good deal for something less and in that case I might purchase that car. However, as a general rule, I would want to move up in quality, save some more, and then repeat the process.
And as others have said, leasing is an even more costly way to own a car then just buying new with a loan. Again it is just a way to disguise the cost of driving something fancy.
You could be normal and just go out and get yourself a car loan and a car. However, remember that normal is broke. Most people do not have money. One of those reasons is the financing of new or nearly new cars.
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 13 more comments
up vote
3
down vote
Call your insurance agent and see what Total Loss Claim would pay out.
If the vehicle is worth more than the yearly cost of repairs (in your case $1470) suck it up, pay for the repair, and start saving for a new car.
If your insurance company can't give you a firm number of a Total Loss claim, The Kelly Blue Book value of the vehicle is likely a decent estimate (but no promises).
If it is not worth at least $1470 to the insurance company, then you will need to buy another car. The reason you should buy/lease/finance another car is simple. If you total your current car in an accident on the way home from the repair shop, and the insurance company doesn't settle your claim at $1470 or more, then you are now $1470 - settlement dollars poorer and car-less.
Always make sure yearly repair cost are not close to or more than the value of your car
P.S.
$1470 sounds a bit high for average yearly repairs. Being car-less also cost in either convince (i.e you and your SO have to carpool to and from work), or actual cost of renting a car. Be sure to factor these cost into the $1470 number. Especially if your job requires frequent travel by car, it might be time to buy a more reliable car for that reason alone.
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Spreading out the cost of a car is a good idea, because most of us don't get paid the cost of a vehicle in a single paycheck. However, paying interest on a depreciating asset isn't a good move from a financial perspective. Leasing generally only makes sense for businesses who can get some tax advantages and smooth out their costs, though a lease is not a good value for the leasee.
The best way to buy a car from where you are today, is to make payments to a car fund now. This fund is your car budget. You save until you can afford the car you need or want. The reason this makes sense is most visible when you do the math.
Car loan scenario:
- Car: 3 year old sedan with low miles in excellent condition
- Cost: $15,000
- Down: $0
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 5%
- Payment: $283.07
- Total Cost: $16984.11
Car savings scenario:
- Start: $0
- Monthly: $283.07
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 1%
- Total Value: $17,408.54
There will probably be comments about inflation and in the loan scenario you are driving a nicer car sooner and for longer and you can get more for your current car now, etc. Those points have some validity. You can partially offset inflation with an investment other than a simple savings account. The first 5 years are actually the hardest and least beneficial. The larger value of the savings approach is seen when applied over a lifetime rather than just a 5 year period. Once you complete the first cycle, you're selling a 7-8 year old car and buying a 2-3 year old car every 5 years for about $2500 less each cycle.
What also shouldn't be overlooked is the greatest value of the savings approach: life will happen during the next 5 years. What are the chances that the average individual will face some type of financial reversal, such as a job loss, need a major home repair, suffer a temporary disability or have significant medical expenses in any given 5 year period? If you are saving, you can simply put that on hold until the situation is resolved. Worst case, you can draw on those funds to resolve the crisis. If you are making payments, you will probably have to sell the car or have it repossessed. The car savings insulates you to a degree from financial misfortune, which means you are more financially stable and have greater peace of mind.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You have two separate questions here: "...get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car..."
Getting rid of this car would seem to be a definite yes. I find it hard to believe that ANY car, especially one with such low mileage, would require the level of repairs that you've experienced. Other than the normal maintenance items like brake pads, I'd be surprised to encounter one or two significant problems in a decade. Things like replacing transmissions & fuel tanks just shouldn't happen, period. So it seems you have a lemon, and junking it is the best option.
Now as to getting a COMPARABLE new car... Well, other questions here deal with the economics of new cars, so I won't repeat them. But in getting your new vehicle, look at information on reliability. Then get a Honda, Toyota, or perhaps Mazda or Subaru.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Your question simply has two parts, both of which are easily answered
(1) Buying a new car is so far from the realm of fiscal sanity, that you can just totally dismiss it.
It's not even in the ballpark of reality - forget it.
Before going even any further, note that the insurance you must have on a new purchased/leased will crush your financial life.
On that - it is perhaps best to dismiss any answers on this page which don't mention the insurance issue on car purchases/leasing - one of the primary reasons "new cars are insanity".
My rough calculation is always that: sure, as an absolute luxury for high earners, it's fine to throw away money on a new car. In short, don't even think of a brand-new car unless your family income is over US$350,000 a year.
(2) Regarding your current car. It's only 13 years old and has no mileage.
With modern technology (and this is incredible) cars as new as yours and with as little mileage as yours, drive exactly the same as a brand new car which just rolled off the assembly line.
For example, one of our cars is a 15? yr old Toyota minivan which has 250000? miles. I paid a few thousand $ for it. It drives literally exactly the same as a new Sienna just off the assembly line. Exactly the same - literally EXACTLY as reliable, smooth, fast and quiet. The only advantage of me walking in to a dealer and buying a new $50,000 Sienna would be that .. it has been washed. Siennas are perhaps the best-engineered vehicle ever, but this applies to all modern vehicles - we live in amazing times for cars.
Indeed as a curiosity, an acquaintance bought a recent model Sienna for $25,000 and it happened to need a $1500 repair in the first year. Our one needed a $600 repair in the same year. Recall that my one is utterly, absolutely, perfectly, identical in terms of speed, reliability, quietness, smoothness and luxury crap. Hence, friend threw away $23,000 (could have bought my one for $2000) and (by bad luck) $900 on repairs. Admittedly, friend's one is, or at least was for a few weeks, extremely clean. (The dealers wash used cars before they sell them.) Also, friend happened to scratch the back of his one. My one has a scratch, but it's a smaller scratch.
So for better or worse you can dismiss the idea that another car you buy will be "generally better".
- Your car drives as-new, the next one you buy will drive as-new, and
- the cost of repairs is unfortunately down to luck.
It is true that some cars are "just bad luck" and you seem to be forever repairing them.
So, it could be that you are unfortunately spending a bit much each year on the Impala - you're spending say 2000 a year whereas if you have a "good luck" car there's only 500 or 100 a year in repairs.
That will happen. It's random. Unfortunately there is just nothing you can do about that.
Unfortunately too, you suffer the "better the devil you know" factor. If you dump your car and buy another similar car (for say $4000 .. whatever), maybe it will never have a repair, or maybe something will go the first week. Unfortunately, it's impossible to guess.
Purely FWIW as a "car guy guess", I personally would dump this Impala, and buy some new used car (for, say, 4000 - 4500 bucks).
But many, many people would say "800 for a fuel tank, so what? pay it and you have a new fuel tank!"
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
If all you care about is the math, this is a relatively simple matter to work out.
First, you need to estimate your annual expenditure on your current vehicle, including insurance, fuel and repairs. Let's imagine $500 for insurance, and your $1,470 for repairs. Fuel we'll estimate at 10,000 miles, 22mpg, and $2.87 per gallon, which is $1,304 per year. The total cost is therefore $3,274 per year.
Then, do the same for the replacement vehicle. Let's assume slightly higher insurance ($600), but fewer repairs ($300). Let's say you get a 25mpg vehicle this time, giving a fuel cost of $1,148, and a total cost of $2,048 per year.
The new vehicle should therefore save you around $1,226 per year â however, you have to pay for it!
So estimate how long you think the new vehicle will last. Let's estimate 100,000 miles. So if you do 10,000 miles per year, and the new car has 30,000 miles on the clock, you can guess it will last seven years. If such a vehicle cost $7,000 that's equivalent to $1,000 per year. If you need to borrow to make the purchase, you'll have to add on interest, of course.
In this scenario, spending $1,000 this year to save $1,226 is certainly worthwhile. In fact, if the new vehicle costs up to $8,500 (7 x $1,226), you'll be better off.
There's obviously lots of estimates involved, but that's the nature of trying to predict the future. When I'm buying a new car, I create a spreadsheet with all this data, including on the existing car, before making my decision. It's quite quick to calculate once the spreadsheet is set up.
add a comment |Â
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
27
down vote
accepted
While ultimately this is a matter of opinion, the major factors in this decision are the cost of what you'll replace it with and how important reliable transportation is to you.
$1470/year is not an incredible sum to keep a car on the road. Any newer car will also have maintenance and repair costs, higher insurance cost (most likely) and either require a significant cash outlay or new monthly car payments.
You've also hit one of the biggest repairs in the transmission, a rebuilt transmission should last at least 30k miles. So barring complete engine failure you could have a few more years of relatively low total cost of ownership. I'd probably have a mechanic inspect it and give you an idea of how much you might have to spend in the near future or how likely the car is to last you a while longer.
Then it's just a matter of deciding if the extra costs of something newer are worth it at this point, or if it makes sense to keep your paid off car kicking along.
Leasing is typically not a great option financially, buying a 2-3 year old used car tends to be the sweet spot, many of which still have time left on the manufacturers warranty which doesn't cover everything typically but can help with the big ticket items.
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
 |Â
show 8 more comments
up vote
27
down vote
accepted
While ultimately this is a matter of opinion, the major factors in this decision are the cost of what you'll replace it with and how important reliable transportation is to you.
$1470/year is not an incredible sum to keep a car on the road. Any newer car will also have maintenance and repair costs, higher insurance cost (most likely) and either require a significant cash outlay or new monthly car payments.
You've also hit one of the biggest repairs in the transmission, a rebuilt transmission should last at least 30k miles. So barring complete engine failure you could have a few more years of relatively low total cost of ownership. I'd probably have a mechanic inspect it and give you an idea of how much you might have to spend in the near future or how likely the car is to last you a while longer.
Then it's just a matter of deciding if the extra costs of something newer are worth it at this point, or if it makes sense to keep your paid off car kicking along.
Leasing is typically not a great option financially, buying a 2-3 year old used car tends to be the sweet spot, many of which still have time left on the manufacturers warranty which doesn't cover everything typically but can help with the big ticket items.
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
 |Â
show 8 more comments
up vote
27
down vote
accepted
up vote
27
down vote
accepted
While ultimately this is a matter of opinion, the major factors in this decision are the cost of what you'll replace it with and how important reliable transportation is to you.
$1470/year is not an incredible sum to keep a car on the road. Any newer car will also have maintenance and repair costs, higher insurance cost (most likely) and either require a significant cash outlay or new monthly car payments.
You've also hit one of the biggest repairs in the transmission, a rebuilt transmission should last at least 30k miles. So barring complete engine failure you could have a few more years of relatively low total cost of ownership. I'd probably have a mechanic inspect it and give you an idea of how much you might have to spend in the near future or how likely the car is to last you a while longer.
Then it's just a matter of deciding if the extra costs of something newer are worth it at this point, or if it makes sense to keep your paid off car kicking along.
Leasing is typically not a great option financially, buying a 2-3 year old used car tends to be the sweet spot, many of which still have time left on the manufacturers warranty which doesn't cover everything typically but can help with the big ticket items.
While ultimately this is a matter of opinion, the major factors in this decision are the cost of what you'll replace it with and how important reliable transportation is to you.
$1470/year is not an incredible sum to keep a car on the road. Any newer car will also have maintenance and repair costs, higher insurance cost (most likely) and either require a significant cash outlay or new monthly car payments.
You've also hit one of the biggest repairs in the transmission, a rebuilt transmission should last at least 30k miles. So barring complete engine failure you could have a few more years of relatively low total cost of ownership. I'd probably have a mechanic inspect it and give you an idea of how much you might have to spend in the near future or how likely the car is to last you a while longer.
Then it's just a matter of deciding if the extra costs of something newer are worth it at this point, or if it makes sense to keep your paid off car kicking along.
Leasing is typically not a great option financially, buying a 2-3 year old used car tends to be the sweet spot, many of which still have time left on the manufacturers warranty which doesn't cover everything typically but can help with the big ticket items.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
Hart CO
22.5k15568
22.5k15568
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
 |Â
show 8 more comments
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
8
8
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
As you've noted, OP's average is not representative; having to replace a transmission is not a normal thing, and unless the shop put in a really badly rebuilt one or substandard replacement, I would expect it to last 100k miles at least, not just 30k. Without the transmission it's more like $800 a year, which is a lot less than what you'd pay just for the added cost of insuring a new car (assuming you need full coverage, which you will if you lease or buy on a loan).
â R..
yesterday
3
3
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
In addition you should be able to get that down a lot by getting a little bit more savvy about cars. $800 for a fuel tank sounds significantly overpriced. It's only about $100 in parts, and a good rule of thumb is to expect car repairs to break down about 50-50 between parts and labor. Here it might be a bit labor-intensive, but over $400 is absurd.
â R..
yesterday
1
1
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
@R.. Yeah 30k is about the minimum on a rebuilt transmission, agreed they should last much longer, I've known too many people for whom they didn't unfortunately, and warranties are little help given high labor costs.
â Hart CO
yesterday
3
3
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
A handful of the payments OP talked about are wear and tear items as well, and I don't think they should be included in the final estimate. Those being: Belts, rotors, pads, alternator and gaskets. As for his fuel tank, I agree with @R..; they are usually about $100-150 in parts brand new. Tanks are relatively easy to change as well. I think OP should consider shopping around for a better mechanic that isn't trying to price gouge.
â knocked loose
yesterday
1
1
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
I would like to point out that a new car lease might have less maintenance. In the case of my nissan leaf, I have had zero maintenance for 4 years. With monthly payments of $120/month
â Gabriel Fair
3 hours ago
 |Â
show 8 more comments
up vote
8
down vote
Here's one option - figure out how much of a car payment you can afford, and start saving that today. Take your repair costs out of that fund. Continue saving until you have enough to and buy a used car with cash.
I would not lease. Leasing is a way to make expensive cars affordable for a short period of time, but you get nothing else in return (it is essentially renting the car).
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
8
down vote
Here's one option - figure out how much of a car payment you can afford, and start saving that today. Take your repair costs out of that fund. Continue saving until you have enough to and buy a used car with cash.
I would not lease. Leasing is a way to make expensive cars affordable for a short period of time, but you get nothing else in return (it is essentially renting the car).
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
8
down vote
up vote
8
down vote
Here's one option - figure out how much of a car payment you can afford, and start saving that today. Take your repair costs out of that fund. Continue saving until you have enough to and buy a used car with cash.
I would not lease. Leasing is a way to make expensive cars affordable for a short period of time, but you get nothing else in return (it is essentially renting the car).
Here's one option - figure out how much of a car payment you can afford, and start saving that today. Take your repair costs out of that fund. Continue saving until you have enough to and buy a used car with cash.
I would not lease. Leasing is a way to make expensive cars affordable for a short period of time, but you get nothing else in return (it is essentially renting the car).
answered yesterday
D Stanley
46.8k7142151
46.8k7142151
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
But how do I know that any other used car won't have the same issues I am having now? Meaning, why would it be an advantage to get another used car over the used car I have now?
â agblt
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
@agbit You get a mechanic to check it out before buying it.
â Lawrence
yesterday
2
2
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
My experience is that a 2-3 year old car with average mileage (30-60k) gives you the best balance of affordability and reliability.
â D Stanley
yesterday
1
1
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
@KaiQing you can deduct mileage or depreciation if you don't lease, which may be more than the deduction for the lease payment.
â D Stanley
yesterday
2
2
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
Thats exactly what I'm doing, people have been telling me for the last several years to get a new car to replace my 2004 with 180K miles on it - she almost never needs repairs and I've only put about 3,000 in repairs into it over the years with 2k being because I forgot to change the timing belt, it went and bent some rods and valves. So as you said - I'm driving her till at least 200K or longer and starting to save 250-500$ a month towards the new car.
â JGlass
23 hours ago
 |Â
show 3 more comments
up vote
7
down vote
Cars are certainly a money suck, but sometimes the cost to the individual is well hidden. The most common and costly example of this is the loss of value when one purchases a new car. One can expect to lose about 5k per year (minimum) when one purchases a new car. More would be lost if that purchase is financed. In comparison, 1500/year is "small potatoes".
IMHO it is foolish to buy a new car without significant assets. The growth of those assets counteract the depreciation one experiences when owning a new car. A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord.
IMHO it is also foolish to obtain a loan for a car. Sure some people play the interest arbitrage game where they could pay cash but opt to finance because of a low teaser rate. If you have the full amount in savings and can earn more than the car loan, I guess I am okay with it, but that situation is mostly uncommon.
So how much money do you have to buy a different car? That would really dictate the answer. If you have 10K saved, I would fix your car for the $800, sell it and buy something newer. If you have less, then I would be tempted to keep your current car. Buying something for less may cause you to inherit a different set of problems. You might come across a really good deal for something less and in that case I might purchase that car. However, as a general rule, I would want to move up in quality, save some more, and then repeat the process.
And as others have said, leasing is an even more costly way to own a car then just buying new with a loan. Again it is just a way to disguise the cost of driving something fancy.
You could be normal and just go out and get yourself a car loan and a car. However, remember that normal is broke. Most people do not have money. One of those reasons is the financing of new or nearly new cars.
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 13 more comments
up vote
7
down vote
Cars are certainly a money suck, but sometimes the cost to the individual is well hidden. The most common and costly example of this is the loss of value when one purchases a new car. One can expect to lose about 5k per year (minimum) when one purchases a new car. More would be lost if that purchase is financed. In comparison, 1500/year is "small potatoes".
IMHO it is foolish to buy a new car without significant assets. The growth of those assets counteract the depreciation one experiences when owning a new car. A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord.
IMHO it is also foolish to obtain a loan for a car. Sure some people play the interest arbitrage game where they could pay cash but opt to finance because of a low teaser rate. If you have the full amount in savings and can earn more than the car loan, I guess I am okay with it, but that situation is mostly uncommon.
So how much money do you have to buy a different car? That would really dictate the answer. If you have 10K saved, I would fix your car for the $800, sell it and buy something newer. If you have less, then I would be tempted to keep your current car. Buying something for less may cause you to inherit a different set of problems. You might come across a really good deal for something less and in that case I might purchase that car. However, as a general rule, I would want to move up in quality, save some more, and then repeat the process.
And as others have said, leasing is an even more costly way to own a car then just buying new with a loan. Again it is just a way to disguise the cost of driving something fancy.
You could be normal and just go out and get yourself a car loan and a car. However, remember that normal is broke. Most people do not have money. One of those reasons is the financing of new or nearly new cars.
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 13 more comments
up vote
7
down vote
up vote
7
down vote
Cars are certainly a money suck, but sometimes the cost to the individual is well hidden. The most common and costly example of this is the loss of value when one purchases a new car. One can expect to lose about 5k per year (minimum) when one purchases a new car. More would be lost if that purchase is financed. In comparison, 1500/year is "small potatoes".
IMHO it is foolish to buy a new car without significant assets. The growth of those assets counteract the depreciation one experiences when owning a new car. A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord.
IMHO it is also foolish to obtain a loan for a car. Sure some people play the interest arbitrage game where they could pay cash but opt to finance because of a low teaser rate. If you have the full amount in savings and can earn more than the car loan, I guess I am okay with it, but that situation is mostly uncommon.
So how much money do you have to buy a different car? That would really dictate the answer. If you have 10K saved, I would fix your car for the $800, sell it and buy something newer. If you have less, then I would be tempted to keep your current car. Buying something for less may cause you to inherit a different set of problems. You might come across a really good deal for something less and in that case I might purchase that car. However, as a general rule, I would want to move up in quality, save some more, and then repeat the process.
And as others have said, leasing is an even more costly way to own a car then just buying new with a loan. Again it is just a way to disguise the cost of driving something fancy.
You could be normal and just go out and get yourself a car loan and a car. However, remember that normal is broke. Most people do not have money. One of those reasons is the financing of new or nearly new cars.
Cars are certainly a money suck, but sometimes the cost to the individual is well hidden. The most common and costly example of this is the loss of value when one purchases a new car. One can expect to lose about 5k per year (minimum) when one purchases a new car. More would be lost if that purchase is financed. In comparison, 1500/year is "small potatoes".
IMHO it is foolish to buy a new car without significant assets. The growth of those assets counteract the depreciation one experiences when owning a new car. A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord.
IMHO it is also foolish to obtain a loan for a car. Sure some people play the interest arbitrage game where they could pay cash but opt to finance because of a low teaser rate. If you have the full amount in savings and can earn more than the car loan, I guess I am okay with it, but that situation is mostly uncommon.
So how much money do you have to buy a different car? That would really dictate the answer. If you have 10K saved, I would fix your car for the $800, sell it and buy something newer. If you have less, then I would be tempted to keep your current car. Buying something for less may cause you to inherit a different set of problems. You might come across a really good deal for something less and in that case I might purchase that car. However, as a general rule, I would want to move up in quality, save some more, and then repeat the process.
And as others have said, leasing is an even more costly way to own a car then just buying new with a loan. Again it is just a way to disguise the cost of driving something fancy.
You could be normal and just go out and get yourself a car loan and a car. However, remember that normal is broke. Most people do not have money. One of those reasons is the financing of new or nearly new cars.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
Pete B.
46.7k1098146
46.7k1098146
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 13 more comments
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
21
21
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
"A decent rule of thumb would be a 500K in invested assets to buy a fairly common car like a Corolla or Accord." I don't think it's necessary to have a half million dollars in assets to purchase one of the top ten bestselling vehicles in the US.
â Our_Benefactors
yesterday
2
2
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
@Our_Benefactors the majority of people would agree with you.
â Pete B.
yesterday
2
2
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
@Our_Benefactors Agreed, that sentence is absolutely absurd.
â MonkeyZeus
yesterday
2
2
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
This is just one of many articles that may vary in detail, but generally indicate the same thing, and this is why "the majority agree": gobankingrates.com/saving-money/savings-advice/⦠Short story: Most spend way beyond their means. The Majority may not really be very sensible. Yes, "normal is broke."
â mickeyf
23 hours ago
3
3
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
@Fattie what a bizarre argument. Cars are self-evidently not worthless, and if you really thought they had no more value than a t-shirt then you wouldn't have volunteered t-shirts as an illustration. In any case, since almost all cars depreciate ultimately to zero, the idea that you can have a rule of thumb of assets to offset with is itself financially irresponsible. Any pattern of car ownership is a time-bounded expense to be funded by income, which may or may not be sourced from investment returns.
â Will
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 13 more comments
up vote
3
down vote
Call your insurance agent and see what Total Loss Claim would pay out.
If the vehicle is worth more than the yearly cost of repairs (in your case $1470) suck it up, pay for the repair, and start saving for a new car.
If your insurance company can't give you a firm number of a Total Loss claim, The Kelly Blue Book value of the vehicle is likely a decent estimate (but no promises).
If it is not worth at least $1470 to the insurance company, then you will need to buy another car. The reason you should buy/lease/finance another car is simple. If you total your current car in an accident on the way home from the repair shop, and the insurance company doesn't settle your claim at $1470 or more, then you are now $1470 - settlement dollars poorer and car-less.
Always make sure yearly repair cost are not close to or more than the value of your car
P.S.
$1470 sounds a bit high for average yearly repairs. Being car-less also cost in either convince (i.e you and your SO have to carpool to and from work), or actual cost of renting a car. Be sure to factor these cost into the $1470 number. Especially if your job requires frequent travel by car, it might be time to buy a more reliable car for that reason alone.
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Call your insurance agent and see what Total Loss Claim would pay out.
If the vehicle is worth more than the yearly cost of repairs (in your case $1470) suck it up, pay for the repair, and start saving for a new car.
If your insurance company can't give you a firm number of a Total Loss claim, The Kelly Blue Book value of the vehicle is likely a decent estimate (but no promises).
If it is not worth at least $1470 to the insurance company, then you will need to buy another car. The reason you should buy/lease/finance another car is simple. If you total your current car in an accident on the way home from the repair shop, and the insurance company doesn't settle your claim at $1470 or more, then you are now $1470 - settlement dollars poorer and car-less.
Always make sure yearly repair cost are not close to or more than the value of your car
P.S.
$1470 sounds a bit high for average yearly repairs. Being car-less also cost in either convince (i.e you and your SO have to carpool to and from work), or actual cost of renting a car. Be sure to factor these cost into the $1470 number. Especially if your job requires frequent travel by car, it might be time to buy a more reliable car for that reason alone.
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
Call your insurance agent and see what Total Loss Claim would pay out.
If the vehicle is worth more than the yearly cost of repairs (in your case $1470) suck it up, pay for the repair, and start saving for a new car.
If your insurance company can't give you a firm number of a Total Loss claim, The Kelly Blue Book value of the vehicle is likely a decent estimate (but no promises).
If it is not worth at least $1470 to the insurance company, then you will need to buy another car. The reason you should buy/lease/finance another car is simple. If you total your current car in an accident on the way home from the repair shop, and the insurance company doesn't settle your claim at $1470 or more, then you are now $1470 - settlement dollars poorer and car-less.
Always make sure yearly repair cost are not close to or more than the value of your car
P.S.
$1470 sounds a bit high for average yearly repairs. Being car-less also cost in either convince (i.e you and your SO have to carpool to and from work), or actual cost of renting a car. Be sure to factor these cost into the $1470 number. Especially if your job requires frequent travel by car, it might be time to buy a more reliable car for that reason alone.
Call your insurance agent and see what Total Loss Claim would pay out.
If the vehicle is worth more than the yearly cost of repairs (in your case $1470) suck it up, pay for the repair, and start saving for a new car.
If your insurance company can't give you a firm number of a Total Loss claim, The Kelly Blue Book value of the vehicle is likely a decent estimate (but no promises).
If it is not worth at least $1470 to the insurance company, then you will need to buy another car. The reason you should buy/lease/finance another car is simple. If you total your current car in an accident on the way home from the repair shop, and the insurance company doesn't settle your claim at $1470 or more, then you are now $1470 - settlement dollars poorer and car-less.
Always make sure yearly repair cost are not close to or more than the value of your car
P.S.
$1470 sounds a bit high for average yearly repairs. Being car-less also cost in either convince (i.e you and your SO have to carpool to and from work), or actual cost of renting a car. Be sure to factor these cost into the $1470 number. Especially if your job requires frequent travel by car, it might be time to buy a more reliable car for that reason alone.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
sevensevens
22414
22414
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
add a comment |Â
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Why make the cost-benefit analysis based on the yearly repair costs?
â Edge
13 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
Forking over $1400 a year is $116 a month (1400/12), that's much less than a car payment would be. The average car payment is $523/month. Especially if the car is not worth much, you also need to consider the insurance payout.
â sevensevens
6 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Spreading out the cost of a car is a good idea, because most of us don't get paid the cost of a vehicle in a single paycheck. However, paying interest on a depreciating asset isn't a good move from a financial perspective. Leasing generally only makes sense for businesses who can get some tax advantages and smooth out their costs, though a lease is not a good value for the leasee.
The best way to buy a car from where you are today, is to make payments to a car fund now. This fund is your car budget. You save until you can afford the car you need or want. The reason this makes sense is most visible when you do the math.
Car loan scenario:
- Car: 3 year old sedan with low miles in excellent condition
- Cost: $15,000
- Down: $0
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 5%
- Payment: $283.07
- Total Cost: $16984.11
Car savings scenario:
- Start: $0
- Monthly: $283.07
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 1%
- Total Value: $17,408.54
There will probably be comments about inflation and in the loan scenario you are driving a nicer car sooner and for longer and you can get more for your current car now, etc. Those points have some validity. You can partially offset inflation with an investment other than a simple savings account. The first 5 years are actually the hardest and least beneficial. The larger value of the savings approach is seen when applied over a lifetime rather than just a 5 year period. Once you complete the first cycle, you're selling a 7-8 year old car and buying a 2-3 year old car every 5 years for about $2500 less each cycle.
What also shouldn't be overlooked is the greatest value of the savings approach: life will happen during the next 5 years. What are the chances that the average individual will face some type of financial reversal, such as a job loss, need a major home repair, suffer a temporary disability or have significant medical expenses in any given 5 year period? If you are saving, you can simply put that on hold until the situation is resolved. Worst case, you can draw on those funds to resolve the crisis. If you are making payments, you will probably have to sell the car or have it repossessed. The car savings insulates you to a degree from financial misfortune, which means you are more financially stable and have greater peace of mind.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Spreading out the cost of a car is a good idea, because most of us don't get paid the cost of a vehicle in a single paycheck. However, paying interest on a depreciating asset isn't a good move from a financial perspective. Leasing generally only makes sense for businesses who can get some tax advantages and smooth out their costs, though a lease is not a good value for the leasee.
The best way to buy a car from where you are today, is to make payments to a car fund now. This fund is your car budget. You save until you can afford the car you need or want. The reason this makes sense is most visible when you do the math.
Car loan scenario:
- Car: 3 year old sedan with low miles in excellent condition
- Cost: $15,000
- Down: $0
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 5%
- Payment: $283.07
- Total Cost: $16984.11
Car savings scenario:
- Start: $0
- Monthly: $283.07
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 1%
- Total Value: $17,408.54
There will probably be comments about inflation and in the loan scenario you are driving a nicer car sooner and for longer and you can get more for your current car now, etc. Those points have some validity. You can partially offset inflation with an investment other than a simple savings account. The first 5 years are actually the hardest and least beneficial. The larger value of the savings approach is seen when applied over a lifetime rather than just a 5 year period. Once you complete the first cycle, you're selling a 7-8 year old car and buying a 2-3 year old car every 5 years for about $2500 less each cycle.
What also shouldn't be overlooked is the greatest value of the savings approach: life will happen during the next 5 years. What are the chances that the average individual will face some type of financial reversal, such as a job loss, need a major home repair, suffer a temporary disability or have significant medical expenses in any given 5 year period? If you are saving, you can simply put that on hold until the situation is resolved. Worst case, you can draw on those funds to resolve the crisis. If you are making payments, you will probably have to sell the car or have it repossessed. The car savings insulates you to a degree from financial misfortune, which means you are more financially stable and have greater peace of mind.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
Spreading out the cost of a car is a good idea, because most of us don't get paid the cost of a vehicle in a single paycheck. However, paying interest on a depreciating asset isn't a good move from a financial perspective. Leasing generally only makes sense for businesses who can get some tax advantages and smooth out their costs, though a lease is not a good value for the leasee.
The best way to buy a car from where you are today, is to make payments to a car fund now. This fund is your car budget. You save until you can afford the car you need or want. The reason this makes sense is most visible when you do the math.
Car loan scenario:
- Car: 3 year old sedan with low miles in excellent condition
- Cost: $15,000
- Down: $0
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 5%
- Payment: $283.07
- Total Cost: $16984.11
Car savings scenario:
- Start: $0
- Monthly: $283.07
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 1%
- Total Value: $17,408.54
There will probably be comments about inflation and in the loan scenario you are driving a nicer car sooner and for longer and you can get more for your current car now, etc. Those points have some validity. You can partially offset inflation with an investment other than a simple savings account. The first 5 years are actually the hardest and least beneficial. The larger value of the savings approach is seen when applied over a lifetime rather than just a 5 year period. Once you complete the first cycle, you're selling a 7-8 year old car and buying a 2-3 year old car every 5 years for about $2500 less each cycle.
What also shouldn't be overlooked is the greatest value of the savings approach: life will happen during the next 5 years. What are the chances that the average individual will face some type of financial reversal, such as a job loss, need a major home repair, suffer a temporary disability or have significant medical expenses in any given 5 year period? If you are saving, you can simply put that on hold until the situation is resolved. Worst case, you can draw on those funds to resolve the crisis. If you are making payments, you will probably have to sell the car or have it repossessed. The car savings insulates you to a degree from financial misfortune, which means you are more financially stable and have greater peace of mind.
Spreading out the cost of a car is a good idea, because most of us don't get paid the cost of a vehicle in a single paycheck. However, paying interest on a depreciating asset isn't a good move from a financial perspective. Leasing generally only makes sense for businesses who can get some tax advantages and smooth out their costs, though a lease is not a good value for the leasee.
The best way to buy a car from where you are today, is to make payments to a car fund now. This fund is your car budget. You save until you can afford the car you need or want. The reason this makes sense is most visible when you do the math.
Car loan scenario:
- Car: 3 year old sedan with low miles in excellent condition
- Cost: $15,000
- Down: $0
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 5%
- Payment: $283.07
- Total Cost: $16984.11
Car savings scenario:
- Start: $0
- Monthly: $283.07
- Term: 5 years
- Interest: 1%
- Total Value: $17,408.54
There will probably be comments about inflation and in the loan scenario you are driving a nicer car sooner and for longer and you can get more for your current car now, etc. Those points have some validity. You can partially offset inflation with an investment other than a simple savings account. The first 5 years are actually the hardest and least beneficial. The larger value of the savings approach is seen when applied over a lifetime rather than just a 5 year period. Once you complete the first cycle, you're selling a 7-8 year old car and buying a 2-3 year old car every 5 years for about $2500 less each cycle.
What also shouldn't be overlooked is the greatest value of the savings approach: life will happen during the next 5 years. What are the chances that the average individual will face some type of financial reversal, such as a job loss, need a major home repair, suffer a temporary disability or have significant medical expenses in any given 5 year period? If you are saving, you can simply put that on hold until the situation is resolved. Worst case, you can draw on those funds to resolve the crisis. If you are making payments, you will probably have to sell the car or have it repossessed. The car savings insulates you to a degree from financial misfortune, which means you are more financially stable and have greater peace of mind.
answered yesterday
DSway
967413
967413
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You have two separate questions here: "...get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car..."
Getting rid of this car would seem to be a definite yes. I find it hard to believe that ANY car, especially one with such low mileage, would require the level of repairs that you've experienced. Other than the normal maintenance items like brake pads, I'd be surprised to encounter one or two significant problems in a decade. Things like replacing transmissions & fuel tanks just shouldn't happen, period. So it seems you have a lemon, and junking it is the best option.
Now as to getting a COMPARABLE new car... Well, other questions here deal with the economics of new cars, so I won't repeat them. But in getting your new vehicle, look at information on reliability. Then get a Honda, Toyota, or perhaps Mazda or Subaru.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
You have two separate questions here: "...get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car..."
Getting rid of this car would seem to be a definite yes. I find it hard to believe that ANY car, especially one with such low mileage, would require the level of repairs that you've experienced. Other than the normal maintenance items like brake pads, I'd be surprised to encounter one or two significant problems in a decade. Things like replacing transmissions & fuel tanks just shouldn't happen, period. So it seems you have a lemon, and junking it is the best option.
Now as to getting a COMPARABLE new car... Well, other questions here deal with the economics of new cars, so I won't repeat them. But in getting your new vehicle, look at information on reliability. Then get a Honda, Toyota, or perhaps Mazda or Subaru.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
You have two separate questions here: "...get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car..."
Getting rid of this car would seem to be a definite yes. I find it hard to believe that ANY car, especially one with such low mileage, would require the level of repairs that you've experienced. Other than the normal maintenance items like brake pads, I'd be surprised to encounter one or two significant problems in a decade. Things like replacing transmissions & fuel tanks just shouldn't happen, period. So it seems you have a lemon, and junking it is the best option.
Now as to getting a COMPARABLE new car... Well, other questions here deal with the economics of new cars, so I won't repeat them. But in getting your new vehicle, look at information on reliability. Then get a Honda, Toyota, or perhaps Mazda or Subaru.
You have two separate questions here: "...get rid of this car and either buy or lease a new comparable car..."
Getting rid of this car would seem to be a definite yes. I find it hard to believe that ANY car, especially one with such low mileage, would require the level of repairs that you've experienced. Other than the normal maintenance items like brake pads, I'd be surprised to encounter one or two significant problems in a decade. Things like replacing transmissions & fuel tanks just shouldn't happen, period. So it seems you have a lemon, and junking it is the best option.
Now as to getting a COMPARABLE new car... Well, other questions here deal with the economics of new cars, so I won't repeat them. But in getting your new vehicle, look at information on reliability. Then get a Honda, Toyota, or perhaps Mazda or Subaru.
answered yesterday
jamesqf
2,796815
2,796815
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Your question simply has two parts, both of which are easily answered
(1) Buying a new car is so far from the realm of fiscal sanity, that you can just totally dismiss it.
It's not even in the ballpark of reality - forget it.
Before going even any further, note that the insurance you must have on a new purchased/leased will crush your financial life.
On that - it is perhaps best to dismiss any answers on this page which don't mention the insurance issue on car purchases/leasing - one of the primary reasons "new cars are insanity".
My rough calculation is always that: sure, as an absolute luxury for high earners, it's fine to throw away money on a new car. In short, don't even think of a brand-new car unless your family income is over US$350,000 a year.
(2) Regarding your current car. It's only 13 years old and has no mileage.
With modern technology (and this is incredible) cars as new as yours and with as little mileage as yours, drive exactly the same as a brand new car which just rolled off the assembly line.
For example, one of our cars is a 15? yr old Toyota minivan which has 250000? miles. I paid a few thousand $ for it. It drives literally exactly the same as a new Sienna just off the assembly line. Exactly the same - literally EXACTLY as reliable, smooth, fast and quiet. The only advantage of me walking in to a dealer and buying a new $50,000 Sienna would be that .. it has been washed. Siennas are perhaps the best-engineered vehicle ever, but this applies to all modern vehicles - we live in amazing times for cars.
Indeed as a curiosity, an acquaintance bought a recent model Sienna for $25,000 and it happened to need a $1500 repair in the first year. Our one needed a $600 repair in the same year. Recall that my one is utterly, absolutely, perfectly, identical in terms of speed, reliability, quietness, smoothness and luxury crap. Hence, friend threw away $23,000 (could have bought my one for $2000) and (by bad luck) $900 on repairs. Admittedly, friend's one is, or at least was for a few weeks, extremely clean. (The dealers wash used cars before they sell them.) Also, friend happened to scratch the back of his one. My one has a scratch, but it's a smaller scratch.
So for better or worse you can dismiss the idea that another car you buy will be "generally better".
- Your car drives as-new, the next one you buy will drive as-new, and
- the cost of repairs is unfortunately down to luck.
It is true that some cars are "just bad luck" and you seem to be forever repairing them.
So, it could be that you are unfortunately spending a bit much each year on the Impala - you're spending say 2000 a year whereas if you have a "good luck" car there's only 500 or 100 a year in repairs.
That will happen. It's random. Unfortunately there is just nothing you can do about that.
Unfortunately too, you suffer the "better the devil you know" factor. If you dump your car and buy another similar car (for say $4000 .. whatever), maybe it will never have a repair, or maybe something will go the first week. Unfortunately, it's impossible to guess.
Purely FWIW as a "car guy guess", I personally would dump this Impala, and buy some new used car (for, say, 4000 - 4500 bucks).
But many, many people would say "800 for a fuel tank, so what? pay it and you have a new fuel tank!"
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Your question simply has two parts, both of which are easily answered
(1) Buying a new car is so far from the realm of fiscal sanity, that you can just totally dismiss it.
It's not even in the ballpark of reality - forget it.
Before going even any further, note that the insurance you must have on a new purchased/leased will crush your financial life.
On that - it is perhaps best to dismiss any answers on this page which don't mention the insurance issue on car purchases/leasing - one of the primary reasons "new cars are insanity".
My rough calculation is always that: sure, as an absolute luxury for high earners, it's fine to throw away money on a new car. In short, don't even think of a brand-new car unless your family income is over US$350,000 a year.
(2) Regarding your current car. It's only 13 years old and has no mileage.
With modern technology (and this is incredible) cars as new as yours and with as little mileage as yours, drive exactly the same as a brand new car which just rolled off the assembly line.
For example, one of our cars is a 15? yr old Toyota minivan which has 250000? miles. I paid a few thousand $ for it. It drives literally exactly the same as a new Sienna just off the assembly line. Exactly the same - literally EXACTLY as reliable, smooth, fast and quiet. The only advantage of me walking in to a dealer and buying a new $50,000 Sienna would be that .. it has been washed. Siennas are perhaps the best-engineered vehicle ever, but this applies to all modern vehicles - we live in amazing times for cars.
Indeed as a curiosity, an acquaintance bought a recent model Sienna for $25,000 and it happened to need a $1500 repair in the first year. Our one needed a $600 repair in the same year. Recall that my one is utterly, absolutely, perfectly, identical in terms of speed, reliability, quietness, smoothness and luxury crap. Hence, friend threw away $23,000 (could have bought my one for $2000) and (by bad luck) $900 on repairs. Admittedly, friend's one is, or at least was for a few weeks, extremely clean. (The dealers wash used cars before they sell them.) Also, friend happened to scratch the back of his one. My one has a scratch, but it's a smaller scratch.
So for better or worse you can dismiss the idea that another car you buy will be "generally better".
- Your car drives as-new, the next one you buy will drive as-new, and
- the cost of repairs is unfortunately down to luck.
It is true that some cars are "just bad luck" and you seem to be forever repairing them.
So, it could be that you are unfortunately spending a bit much each year on the Impala - you're spending say 2000 a year whereas if you have a "good luck" car there's only 500 or 100 a year in repairs.
That will happen. It's random. Unfortunately there is just nothing you can do about that.
Unfortunately too, you suffer the "better the devil you know" factor. If you dump your car and buy another similar car (for say $4000 .. whatever), maybe it will never have a repair, or maybe something will go the first week. Unfortunately, it's impossible to guess.
Purely FWIW as a "car guy guess", I personally would dump this Impala, and buy some new used car (for, say, 4000 - 4500 bucks).
But many, many people would say "800 for a fuel tank, so what? pay it and you have a new fuel tank!"
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
Your question simply has two parts, both of which are easily answered
(1) Buying a new car is so far from the realm of fiscal sanity, that you can just totally dismiss it.
It's not even in the ballpark of reality - forget it.
Before going even any further, note that the insurance you must have on a new purchased/leased will crush your financial life.
On that - it is perhaps best to dismiss any answers on this page which don't mention the insurance issue on car purchases/leasing - one of the primary reasons "new cars are insanity".
My rough calculation is always that: sure, as an absolute luxury for high earners, it's fine to throw away money on a new car. In short, don't even think of a brand-new car unless your family income is over US$350,000 a year.
(2) Regarding your current car. It's only 13 years old and has no mileage.
With modern technology (and this is incredible) cars as new as yours and with as little mileage as yours, drive exactly the same as a brand new car which just rolled off the assembly line.
For example, one of our cars is a 15? yr old Toyota minivan which has 250000? miles. I paid a few thousand $ for it. It drives literally exactly the same as a new Sienna just off the assembly line. Exactly the same - literally EXACTLY as reliable, smooth, fast and quiet. The only advantage of me walking in to a dealer and buying a new $50,000 Sienna would be that .. it has been washed. Siennas are perhaps the best-engineered vehicle ever, but this applies to all modern vehicles - we live in amazing times for cars.
Indeed as a curiosity, an acquaintance bought a recent model Sienna for $25,000 and it happened to need a $1500 repair in the first year. Our one needed a $600 repair in the same year. Recall that my one is utterly, absolutely, perfectly, identical in terms of speed, reliability, quietness, smoothness and luxury crap. Hence, friend threw away $23,000 (could have bought my one for $2000) and (by bad luck) $900 on repairs. Admittedly, friend's one is, or at least was for a few weeks, extremely clean. (The dealers wash used cars before they sell them.) Also, friend happened to scratch the back of his one. My one has a scratch, but it's a smaller scratch.
So for better or worse you can dismiss the idea that another car you buy will be "generally better".
- Your car drives as-new, the next one you buy will drive as-new, and
- the cost of repairs is unfortunately down to luck.
It is true that some cars are "just bad luck" and you seem to be forever repairing them.
So, it could be that you are unfortunately spending a bit much each year on the Impala - you're spending say 2000 a year whereas if you have a "good luck" car there's only 500 or 100 a year in repairs.
That will happen. It's random. Unfortunately there is just nothing you can do about that.
Unfortunately too, you suffer the "better the devil you know" factor. If you dump your car and buy another similar car (for say $4000 .. whatever), maybe it will never have a repair, or maybe something will go the first week. Unfortunately, it's impossible to guess.
Purely FWIW as a "car guy guess", I personally would dump this Impala, and buy some new used car (for, say, 4000 - 4500 bucks).
But many, many people would say "800 for a fuel tank, so what? pay it and you have a new fuel tank!"
Your question simply has two parts, both of which are easily answered
(1) Buying a new car is so far from the realm of fiscal sanity, that you can just totally dismiss it.
It's not even in the ballpark of reality - forget it.
Before going even any further, note that the insurance you must have on a new purchased/leased will crush your financial life.
On that - it is perhaps best to dismiss any answers on this page which don't mention the insurance issue on car purchases/leasing - one of the primary reasons "new cars are insanity".
My rough calculation is always that: sure, as an absolute luxury for high earners, it's fine to throw away money on a new car. In short, don't even think of a brand-new car unless your family income is over US$350,000 a year.
(2) Regarding your current car. It's only 13 years old and has no mileage.
With modern technology (and this is incredible) cars as new as yours and with as little mileage as yours, drive exactly the same as a brand new car which just rolled off the assembly line.
For example, one of our cars is a 15? yr old Toyota minivan which has 250000? miles. I paid a few thousand $ for it. It drives literally exactly the same as a new Sienna just off the assembly line. Exactly the same - literally EXACTLY as reliable, smooth, fast and quiet. The only advantage of me walking in to a dealer and buying a new $50,000 Sienna would be that .. it has been washed. Siennas are perhaps the best-engineered vehicle ever, but this applies to all modern vehicles - we live in amazing times for cars.
Indeed as a curiosity, an acquaintance bought a recent model Sienna for $25,000 and it happened to need a $1500 repair in the first year. Our one needed a $600 repair in the same year. Recall that my one is utterly, absolutely, perfectly, identical in terms of speed, reliability, quietness, smoothness and luxury crap. Hence, friend threw away $23,000 (could have bought my one for $2000) and (by bad luck) $900 on repairs. Admittedly, friend's one is, or at least was for a few weeks, extremely clean. (The dealers wash used cars before they sell them.) Also, friend happened to scratch the back of his one. My one has a scratch, but it's a smaller scratch.
So for better or worse you can dismiss the idea that another car you buy will be "generally better".
- Your car drives as-new, the next one you buy will drive as-new, and
- the cost of repairs is unfortunately down to luck.
It is true that some cars are "just bad luck" and you seem to be forever repairing them.
So, it could be that you are unfortunately spending a bit much each year on the Impala - you're spending say 2000 a year whereas if you have a "good luck" car there's only 500 or 100 a year in repairs.
That will happen. It's random. Unfortunately there is just nothing you can do about that.
Unfortunately too, you suffer the "better the devil you know" factor. If you dump your car and buy another similar car (for say $4000 .. whatever), maybe it will never have a repair, or maybe something will go the first week. Unfortunately, it's impossible to guess.
Purely FWIW as a "car guy guess", I personally would dump this Impala, and buy some new used car (for, say, 4000 - 4500 bucks).
But many, many people would say "800 for a fuel tank, so what? pay it and you have a new fuel tank!"
answered 5 hours ago
Fattie
3,35321631
3,35321631
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
If all you care about is the math, this is a relatively simple matter to work out.
First, you need to estimate your annual expenditure on your current vehicle, including insurance, fuel and repairs. Let's imagine $500 for insurance, and your $1,470 for repairs. Fuel we'll estimate at 10,000 miles, 22mpg, and $2.87 per gallon, which is $1,304 per year. The total cost is therefore $3,274 per year.
Then, do the same for the replacement vehicle. Let's assume slightly higher insurance ($600), but fewer repairs ($300). Let's say you get a 25mpg vehicle this time, giving a fuel cost of $1,148, and a total cost of $2,048 per year.
The new vehicle should therefore save you around $1,226 per year â however, you have to pay for it!
So estimate how long you think the new vehicle will last. Let's estimate 100,000 miles. So if you do 10,000 miles per year, and the new car has 30,000 miles on the clock, you can guess it will last seven years. If such a vehicle cost $7,000 that's equivalent to $1,000 per year. If you need to borrow to make the purchase, you'll have to add on interest, of course.
In this scenario, spending $1,000 this year to save $1,226 is certainly worthwhile. In fact, if the new vehicle costs up to $8,500 (7 x $1,226), you'll be better off.
There's obviously lots of estimates involved, but that's the nature of trying to predict the future. When I'm buying a new car, I create a spreadsheet with all this data, including on the existing car, before making my decision. It's quite quick to calculate once the spreadsheet is set up.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
If all you care about is the math, this is a relatively simple matter to work out.
First, you need to estimate your annual expenditure on your current vehicle, including insurance, fuel and repairs. Let's imagine $500 for insurance, and your $1,470 for repairs. Fuel we'll estimate at 10,000 miles, 22mpg, and $2.87 per gallon, which is $1,304 per year. The total cost is therefore $3,274 per year.
Then, do the same for the replacement vehicle. Let's assume slightly higher insurance ($600), but fewer repairs ($300). Let's say you get a 25mpg vehicle this time, giving a fuel cost of $1,148, and a total cost of $2,048 per year.
The new vehicle should therefore save you around $1,226 per year â however, you have to pay for it!
So estimate how long you think the new vehicle will last. Let's estimate 100,000 miles. So if you do 10,000 miles per year, and the new car has 30,000 miles on the clock, you can guess it will last seven years. If such a vehicle cost $7,000 that's equivalent to $1,000 per year. If you need to borrow to make the purchase, you'll have to add on interest, of course.
In this scenario, spending $1,000 this year to save $1,226 is certainly worthwhile. In fact, if the new vehicle costs up to $8,500 (7 x $1,226), you'll be better off.
There's obviously lots of estimates involved, but that's the nature of trying to predict the future. When I'm buying a new car, I create a spreadsheet with all this data, including on the existing car, before making my decision. It's quite quick to calculate once the spreadsheet is set up.
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
If all you care about is the math, this is a relatively simple matter to work out.
First, you need to estimate your annual expenditure on your current vehicle, including insurance, fuel and repairs. Let's imagine $500 for insurance, and your $1,470 for repairs. Fuel we'll estimate at 10,000 miles, 22mpg, and $2.87 per gallon, which is $1,304 per year. The total cost is therefore $3,274 per year.
Then, do the same for the replacement vehicle. Let's assume slightly higher insurance ($600), but fewer repairs ($300). Let's say you get a 25mpg vehicle this time, giving a fuel cost of $1,148, and a total cost of $2,048 per year.
The new vehicle should therefore save you around $1,226 per year â however, you have to pay for it!
So estimate how long you think the new vehicle will last. Let's estimate 100,000 miles. So if you do 10,000 miles per year, and the new car has 30,000 miles on the clock, you can guess it will last seven years. If such a vehicle cost $7,000 that's equivalent to $1,000 per year. If you need to borrow to make the purchase, you'll have to add on interest, of course.
In this scenario, spending $1,000 this year to save $1,226 is certainly worthwhile. In fact, if the new vehicle costs up to $8,500 (7 x $1,226), you'll be better off.
There's obviously lots of estimates involved, but that's the nature of trying to predict the future. When I'm buying a new car, I create a spreadsheet with all this data, including on the existing car, before making my decision. It's quite quick to calculate once the spreadsheet is set up.
If all you care about is the math, this is a relatively simple matter to work out.
First, you need to estimate your annual expenditure on your current vehicle, including insurance, fuel and repairs. Let's imagine $500 for insurance, and your $1,470 for repairs. Fuel we'll estimate at 10,000 miles, 22mpg, and $2.87 per gallon, which is $1,304 per year. The total cost is therefore $3,274 per year.
Then, do the same for the replacement vehicle. Let's assume slightly higher insurance ($600), but fewer repairs ($300). Let's say you get a 25mpg vehicle this time, giving a fuel cost of $1,148, and a total cost of $2,048 per year.
The new vehicle should therefore save you around $1,226 per year â however, you have to pay for it!
So estimate how long you think the new vehicle will last. Let's estimate 100,000 miles. So if you do 10,000 miles per year, and the new car has 30,000 miles on the clock, you can guess it will last seven years. If such a vehicle cost $7,000 that's equivalent to $1,000 per year. If you need to borrow to make the purchase, you'll have to add on interest, of course.
In this scenario, spending $1,000 this year to save $1,226 is certainly worthwhile. In fact, if the new vehicle costs up to $8,500 (7 x $1,226), you'll be better off.
There's obviously lots of estimates involved, but that's the nature of trying to predict the future. When I'm buying a new car, I create a spreadsheet with all this data, including on the existing car, before making my decision. It's quite quick to calculate once the spreadsheet is set up.
answered 45 mins ago
Mark Barnes
1547
1547
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
agblt is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
agblt is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
agblt is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
agblt is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fmoney.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f100460%2fis-it-a-good-time-to-replace-my-used-car%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
2
Do you still owe anything on the Impala? If so, what are the payments?
â JohnFxâ¦
yesterday
1
There are no payments
â agblt
yesterday
3
has the car left you stranded? even if it didn't leave you stranded was the loss of use of the car during the repair a major impact on your transportation.
â mhoran_psprep
yesterday
1
It has been inconvenient at times, but luckily most repairs were quick as we have a good mobile mechanic who comes to our house, and we do not use it for very long distances, so I would not say it has had a major impact
â agblt
yesterday
4
I'm not sure "average cost" is a good measure here - that's useful if the costs sometimes go up and sometimes come down, but tend to hover around the mean. With old cars, the curve tends to look exponential - it just goes up.
â Lawrence
yesterday