Mixing
20x20x20 calibration cube size change after switching filament
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I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm.
Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.
filament slic3r calibration
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm.
Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.
filament slic3r calibration
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
1
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm.
Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.
filament slic3r calibration
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I used to print with PLA and everything in my printer was calibrated. But I got a new type of filament called Poly Hybrid from a friend of mine. When I print a 20 mm cube, the x and y axes are fine but z axis in cube is about 18 mm.
Should I calibrate my printer z axis again for this new filament type? Because I couldn't find any option in Slic3r in filament tab to set layer height.
filament slic3r calibration
filament slic3r calibration
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
edited 2 hours ago
Greenonline♦
2,8063843
2,8063843
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
asked 2 hours ago
Hamid FzM
1212
1212
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Hamid FzM is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
1
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago
add a comment |Â
2
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
1
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago
2
2
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
1
1
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
Calibrating a printer is a hit and miss, as you have basically two large factors that factor into a claibration:
- Mechanical precision, as in how precise the motors move.
- Filament factors, as in how steady your filament is.
Let's assume several cases:
- The Mechanical precision is off.
- The Filament varies in thickness over the length.
- The Filament has different thermal properties.
- The Filament has a different thickness than what you calibrated for.
Mechanical Precision
If the mechanical precision is off in some way, then using the same filament on a different test object should show a re-createable, persistent error. If a 20mm cube has 2mm error, the 40mm cube should either have the same 2mm error for things like backlash or a 4mm error for a proportional fault like gear toothing or steps/mm
Thickness variation
Filament thickness variation over the length of the filament should show in the shape of sudden under- or over-extrusion when otherwise the print is fine.
Thermal properties
This can be seen usually in the extruder not getting a flow or being too runny when printing. Each filament (color + Manufacturer combo) warrants looking for the right temperature to be printed. Dial your temperature in! Printing too hot can result in prints sacking and an elephant foot. Printing too cold results in under-extrusion and clicky extruder.
Filament diameter change to calibration
This is actually very easy to correct: make sure your filament is set up correctly in the slicer, save this setting and switch to a different filament profile if needed.
Way to go:
Before running an entire mechanical calibration, make sure that your filament (2-3) is allright.
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing, this is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before), it cannot loose 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations are in the order of a few tenths of a mm.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew, so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. If it was underextrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend. This is not the case, you have not described that.
Optimally a question includes a picture of the print and the printer type!
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
Calibrating a printer is a hit and miss, as you have basically two large factors that factor into a claibration:
- Mechanical precision, as in how precise the motors move.
- Filament factors, as in how steady your filament is.
Let's assume several cases:
- The Mechanical precision is off.
- The Filament varies in thickness over the length.
- The Filament has different thermal properties.
- The Filament has a different thickness than what you calibrated for.
Mechanical Precision
If the mechanical precision is off in some way, then using the same filament on a different test object should show a re-createable, persistent error. If a 20mm cube has 2mm error, the 40mm cube should either have the same 2mm error for things like backlash or a 4mm error for a proportional fault like gear toothing or steps/mm
Thickness variation
Filament thickness variation over the length of the filament should show in the shape of sudden under- or over-extrusion when otherwise the print is fine.
Thermal properties
This can be seen usually in the extruder not getting a flow or being too runny when printing. Each filament (color + Manufacturer combo) warrants looking for the right temperature to be printed. Dial your temperature in! Printing too hot can result in prints sacking and an elephant foot. Printing too cold results in under-extrusion and clicky extruder.
Filament diameter change to calibration
This is actually very easy to correct: make sure your filament is set up correctly in the slicer, save this setting and switch to a different filament profile if needed.
Way to go:
Before running an entire mechanical calibration, make sure that your filament (2-3) is allright.
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
Calibrating a printer is a hit and miss, as you have basically two large factors that factor into a claibration:
- Mechanical precision, as in how precise the motors move.
- Filament factors, as in how steady your filament is.
Let's assume several cases:
- The Mechanical precision is off.
- The Filament varies in thickness over the length.
- The Filament has different thermal properties.
- The Filament has a different thickness than what you calibrated for.
Mechanical Precision
If the mechanical precision is off in some way, then using the same filament on a different test object should show a re-createable, persistent error. If a 20mm cube has 2mm error, the 40mm cube should either have the same 2mm error for things like backlash or a 4mm error for a proportional fault like gear toothing or steps/mm
Thickness variation
Filament thickness variation over the length of the filament should show in the shape of sudden under- or over-extrusion when otherwise the print is fine.
Thermal properties
This can be seen usually in the extruder not getting a flow or being too runny when printing. Each filament (color + Manufacturer combo) warrants looking for the right temperature to be printed. Dial your temperature in! Printing too hot can result in prints sacking and an elephant foot. Printing too cold results in under-extrusion and clicky extruder.
Filament diameter change to calibration
This is actually very easy to correct: make sure your filament is set up correctly in the slicer, save this setting and switch to a different filament profile if needed.
Way to go:
Before running an entire mechanical calibration, make sure that your filament (2-3) is allright.
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
Calibrating a printer is a hit and miss, as you have basically two large factors that factor into a claibration:
- Mechanical precision, as in how precise the motors move.
- Filament factors, as in how steady your filament is.
Let's assume several cases:
- The Mechanical precision is off.
- The Filament varies in thickness over the length.
- The Filament has different thermal properties.
- The Filament has a different thickness than what you calibrated for.
Mechanical Precision
If the mechanical precision is off in some way, then using the same filament on a different test object should show a re-createable, persistent error. If a 20mm cube has 2mm error, the 40mm cube should either have the same 2mm error for things like backlash or a 4mm error for a proportional fault like gear toothing or steps/mm
Thickness variation
Filament thickness variation over the length of the filament should show in the shape of sudden under- or over-extrusion when otherwise the print is fine.
Thermal properties
This can be seen usually in the extruder not getting a flow or being too runny when printing. Each filament (color + Manufacturer combo) warrants looking for the right temperature to be printed. Dial your temperature in! Printing too hot can result in prints sacking and an elephant foot. Printing too cold results in under-extrusion and clicky extruder.
Filament diameter change to calibration
This is actually very easy to correct: make sure your filament is set up correctly in the slicer, save this setting and switch to a different filament profile if needed.
Way to go:
Before running an entire mechanical calibration, make sure that your filament (2-3) is allright.
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
Calibrating a printer is a hit and miss, as you have basically two large factors that factor into a claibration:
- Mechanical precision, as in how precise the motors move.
- Filament factors, as in how steady your filament is.
Let's assume several cases:
- The Mechanical precision is off.
- The Filament varies in thickness over the length.
- The Filament has different thermal properties.
- The Filament has a different thickness than what you calibrated for.
Mechanical Precision
If the mechanical precision is off in some way, then using the same filament on a different test object should show a re-createable, persistent error. If a 20mm cube has 2mm error, the 40mm cube should either have the same 2mm error for things like backlash or a 4mm error for a proportional fault like gear toothing or steps/mm
Thickness variation
Filament thickness variation over the length of the filament should show in the shape of sudden under- or over-extrusion when otherwise the print is fine.
Thermal properties
This can be seen usually in the extruder not getting a flow or being too runny when printing. Each filament (color + Manufacturer combo) warrants looking for the right temperature to be printed. Dial your temperature in! Printing too hot can result in prints sacking and an elephant foot. Printing too cold results in under-extrusion and clicky extruder.
Filament diameter change to calibration
This is actually very easy to correct: make sure your filament is set up correctly in the slicer, save this setting and switch to a different filament profile if needed.
Way to go:
Before running an entire mechanical calibration, make sure that your filament (2-3) is allright.
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
answered 2 hours ago
Trish
2,386129
2,386129
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing, this is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before), it cannot loose 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations are in the order of a few tenths of a mm.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew, so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. If it was underextrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend. This is not the case, you have not described that.
Optimally a question includes a picture of the print and the printer type!
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing, this is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before), it cannot loose 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations are in the order of a few tenths of a mm.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew, so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. If it was underextrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend. This is not the case, you have not described that.
Optimally a question includes a picture of the print and the printer type!
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing, this is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before), it cannot loose 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations are in the order of a few tenths of a mm.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew, so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. If it was underextrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend. This is not the case, you have not described that.
Optimally a question includes a picture of the print and the printer type!
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
Filament type should have nothing to do with the issues you are facing, this is a mechanical issue or a slicing/scaling issue. The hotend should, if instructed to go to 20 mm height actually go to 20 mm (it did do that before), it cannot loose 2 mm on the way up unless you have a lot of lost steps (e.g. too much load on the carriage pressing it down, but that seems pretty unlikely). Typical variations are in the order of a few tenths of a mm.
Please note that the Z axis is usually controlled by a leadscrew, so once you dialed this in, the head will go to the instructed height. If it was underextrusion because of lower diameter filament, the last few layers should have been falling out of the hotend. This is not the case, you have not described that.
Optimally a question includes a picture of the print and the printer type!
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
edited 15 mins ago
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
answered 24 mins ago
0scar
5,4411835
5,4411835
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
Hamid FzM is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Hamid FzM is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Hamid FzM is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Hamid FzM is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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2
Have you measured your filament, with calipers, at several locations, and compared this to readings from the other filament?
– Davo
2 hours ago
@Davo Yes I measured new filament diameter in first 1 meter and it was exactly 1.75 mm. But i didn't do it for my previous filament. OMG I calibrated my printer with previous one
– Hamid FzM
2 hours ago
1
could you tell what kind of printer do you have?
– profesor79
1 hour ago
@profesor79 Good call, maybe the OP can add an image of the print as well!
– 0scar
24 mins ago