Adding additional extrusion to a raft (raft with a skirt?)
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
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I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts).
It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).
Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.
- Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Cura?
- Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?
- Is it possible to add some initial G-Code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?
cura extrusion ender-3
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up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts).
It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).
Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.
- Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Cura?
- Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?
- Is it possible to add some initial G-Code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?
cura extrusion ender-3
New contributor
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts).
It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).
Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.
- Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Cura?
- Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?
- Is it possible to add some initial G-Code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?
cura extrusion ender-3
New contributor
I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts).
It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).
Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.
- Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Cura?
- Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?
- Is it possible to add some initial G-Code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?
cura extrusion ender-3
cura extrusion ender-3
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asked 4 hours ago
Gone Coding
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2 Answers
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You need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.
Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:
G1 X10 Y10 Z2
Then you need to extrude material
G1 F125
G1 E10
G1 Z3 E5
After that you can even wipe the nozzle.
add a comment |Â
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1
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It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.
It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.
Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the "official" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.
FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
You need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.
Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:
G1 X10 Y10 Z2
Then you need to extrude material
G1 F125
G1 E10
G1 Z3 E5
After that you can even wipe the nozzle.
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
You need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.
Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:
G1 X10 Y10 Z2
Then you need to extrude material
G1 F125
G1 E10
G1 Z3 E5
After that you can even wipe the nozzle.
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
You need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.
Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:
G1 X10 Y10 Z2
Then you need to extrude material
G1 F125
G1 E10
G1 Z3 E5
After that you can even wipe the nozzle.
You need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.
Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:
G1 X10 Y10 Z2
Then you need to extrude material
G1 F125
G1 E10
G1 Z3 E5
After that you can even wipe the nozzle.
edited 2 hours ago
answered 2 hours ago
0scar
7,29611138
7,29611138
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add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.
It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.
Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the "official" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.
FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.
It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.
Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the "official" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.
FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.
It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.
Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the "official" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.
FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print
It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing.
It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems.
Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the "official" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts.
FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print
answered 3 hours ago
Carl Witthoft
1,994314
1,994314
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