Mixing
Chain loosening over time (Fixie)
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
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I've ridden a fixed gear bike for years now, but I've only just questioned if I have been doing something wrong when adjusting the chain.
You see, I have to tension the chain (pulling the rear wheel back) every now and then, roughly once a month because the chain becomes very loose with regular riding.
At first I tried to keep the chain as tight as possible, so that there's pretty much no latency in the pedals when the bike is stationary (don't know if this is the correct expression) but then I read somewhere that doing this with fixed gear bikes can damage the drivetrain, and you should actually have a little latency and thus a slightly loose chain.
In short, my questions are:
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
chain fixed-gear
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
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jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
favorite
I've ridden a fixed gear bike for years now, but I've only just questioned if I have been doing something wrong when adjusting the chain.
You see, I have to tension the chain (pulling the rear wheel back) every now and then, roughly once a month because the chain becomes very loose with regular riding.
At first I tried to keep the chain as tight as possible, so that there's pretty much no latency in the pedals when the bike is stationary (don't know if this is the correct expression) but then I read somewhere that doing this with fixed gear bikes can damage the drivetrain, and you should actually have a little latency and thus a slightly loose chain.
In short, my questions are:
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
chain fixed-gear
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
2
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
favorite
up vote
7
down vote
favorite
I've ridden a fixed gear bike for years now, but I've only just questioned if I have been doing something wrong when adjusting the chain.
You see, I have to tension the chain (pulling the rear wheel back) every now and then, roughly once a month because the chain becomes very loose with regular riding.
At first I tried to keep the chain as tight as possible, so that there's pretty much no latency in the pedals when the bike is stationary (don't know if this is the correct expression) but then I read somewhere that doing this with fixed gear bikes can damage the drivetrain, and you should actually have a little latency and thus a slightly loose chain.
In short, my questions are:
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
chain fixed-gear
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I've ridden a fixed gear bike for years now, but I've only just questioned if I have been doing something wrong when adjusting the chain.
You see, I have to tension the chain (pulling the rear wheel back) every now and then, roughly once a month because the chain becomes very loose with regular riding.
At first I tried to keep the chain as tight as possible, so that there's pretty much no latency in the pedals when the bike is stationary (don't know if this is the correct expression) but then I read somewhere that doing this with fixed gear bikes can damage the drivetrain, and you should actually have a little latency and thus a slightly loose chain.
In short, my questions are:
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
chain fixed-gear
chain fixed-gear
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
asked 2 days ago
jenga
361
361
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
jenga is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
2
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
2
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago
I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
2
2
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
5
down vote
There are already some exhaustive answers in this thread, I won't be repeating those.
To shortly answer your questions:
no, I don't think so. I've ridden a fixie myself and after about 500km I've loosened my chain because of the reason given in your second question. Since then it's been more than 500km again, no chain tension adjustment needed.
yes, you're correct about damaging the drivetrain, stretching the chain and putting excessive (and uneven) stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and the rear axle.
If applying a correct torque to the nuts of the rear axle doesn't help perhaps you should resort to one of the following items mentioned in this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56603/34697?
Those are:
serrated/star washer
chain tension adjuster, is only to be applied to the rear-facing dropouts.
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
That is mostly correct. Given that the circularity of the chainring, bearings and rear sprocket are never ideal, there will be a position through a full crank's rotation when the chain is the most tight, and a position where it is the most loose. It is recommended to find the tightest spot and tune the chain tension to be just right in it. Then, just in case, you can find the loosest spot and make sure the chain won't hop off the teeth if shaken in the second position.
Overtightening a chain would not give performance benefits while simultaneously it would start pressing both chain and chainring excessively, not benefiting their wear life.
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
If it is not the rear wheel axle sliding forward because of a low torque on its axles or because of bad nut design/quality, then it is the chain. You would have noticed the axle sliding because the rear wheel would become misaligned in the rear dropouts and the tire would start rubbing one of the rear chainstays.
It is possible that a chain of poor quality would wear faster than desired, effectively "stretching" itself and thus becoming loose on the drivetrain's teeth over time. I've read reports that so called half-link chains used in BMX are quite prone to it. Try using a better, possibly more expensive chain.
Again, if the chain seems "loose" to your taste but you cannot throw it off the drivetrain's teeth by hand, it is unlikely it will come off during riding. In that case, let it be for a while.
And again, do not forget about regular maintenance of the chain, that is, replacing it after it has worn and become longer by 0.75% of its original length.
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The rear wheel should not simply be pulled back so that the chain is taught. Doing so would accelerate wear.
When properly tensioned you should be able to move the chain about 12mm (0.5 inch) up or down about halfway between sprocket and chainring.
To rule out wheel movement, you could invest in a set of chain tensioners that fit in the dropouts. These will also make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.
As usual, Park Took has a great video on single speed chain replacement and tensioning:
.
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
Other answers have already covered the part about why chain should not be too tight, so I will answer only about chain wearing.
It is not normal, but not completely unheard of. The worst singlespeed chain I have had wore out in about 1000 km and had to be tightened halfway during long rides. It was marketed as rust proof, I guess the idea is that the chain would wear out before it had time to rust. It was not because the wheel was moving in dropouts, and switching to a different brand solved the problem.
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
add a comment |Â
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
5
down vote
There are already some exhaustive answers in this thread, I won't be repeating those.
To shortly answer your questions:
no, I don't think so. I've ridden a fixie myself and after about 500km I've loosened my chain because of the reason given in your second question. Since then it's been more than 500km again, no chain tension adjustment needed.
yes, you're correct about damaging the drivetrain, stretching the chain and putting excessive (and uneven) stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and the rear axle.
If applying a correct torque to the nuts of the rear axle doesn't help perhaps you should resort to one of the following items mentioned in this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56603/34697?
Those are:
serrated/star washer
chain tension adjuster, is only to be applied to the rear-facing dropouts.
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
There are already some exhaustive answers in this thread, I won't be repeating those.
To shortly answer your questions:
no, I don't think so. I've ridden a fixie myself and after about 500km I've loosened my chain because of the reason given in your second question. Since then it's been more than 500km again, no chain tension adjustment needed.
yes, you're correct about damaging the drivetrain, stretching the chain and putting excessive (and uneven) stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and the rear axle.
If applying a correct torque to the nuts of the rear axle doesn't help perhaps you should resort to one of the following items mentioned in this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56603/34697?
Those are:
serrated/star washer
chain tension adjuster, is only to be applied to the rear-facing dropouts.
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
add a comment |Â
up vote
5
down vote
up vote
5
down vote
There are already some exhaustive answers in this thread, I won't be repeating those.
To shortly answer your questions:
no, I don't think so. I've ridden a fixie myself and after about 500km I've loosened my chain because of the reason given in your second question. Since then it's been more than 500km again, no chain tension adjustment needed.
yes, you're correct about damaging the drivetrain, stretching the chain and putting excessive (and uneven) stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and the rear axle.
If applying a correct torque to the nuts of the rear axle doesn't help perhaps you should resort to one of the following items mentioned in this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56603/34697?
Those are:
serrated/star washer
chain tension adjuster, is only to be applied to the rear-facing dropouts.
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
There are already some exhaustive answers in this thread, I won't be repeating those.
To shortly answer your questions:
no, I don't think so. I've ridden a fixie myself and after about 500km I've loosened my chain because of the reason given in your second question. Since then it's been more than 500km again, no chain tension adjustment needed.
yes, you're correct about damaging the drivetrain, stretching the chain and putting excessive (and uneven) stress on the bearings in the bottom bracket and the rear axle.
If applying a correct torque to the nuts of the rear axle doesn't help perhaps you should resort to one of the following items mentioned in this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56603/34697?
Those are:
serrated/star washer
chain tension adjuster, is only to be applied to the rear-facing dropouts.
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
answered 2 days ago
Mike
2,029422
2,029422
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
That is mostly correct. Given that the circularity of the chainring, bearings and rear sprocket are never ideal, there will be a position through a full crank's rotation when the chain is the most tight, and a position where it is the most loose. It is recommended to find the tightest spot and tune the chain tension to be just right in it. Then, just in case, you can find the loosest spot and make sure the chain won't hop off the teeth if shaken in the second position.
Overtightening a chain would not give performance benefits while simultaneously it would start pressing both chain and chainring excessively, not benefiting their wear life.
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
If it is not the rear wheel axle sliding forward because of a low torque on its axles or because of bad nut design/quality, then it is the chain. You would have noticed the axle sliding because the rear wheel would become misaligned in the rear dropouts and the tire would start rubbing one of the rear chainstays.
It is possible that a chain of poor quality would wear faster than desired, effectively "stretching" itself and thus becoming loose on the drivetrain's teeth over time. I've read reports that so called half-link chains used in BMX are quite prone to it. Try using a better, possibly more expensive chain.
Again, if the chain seems "loose" to your taste but you cannot throw it off the drivetrain's teeth by hand, it is unlikely it will come off during riding. In that case, let it be for a while.
And again, do not forget about regular maintenance of the chain, that is, replacing it after it has worn and become longer by 0.75% of its original length.
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
That is mostly correct. Given that the circularity of the chainring, bearings and rear sprocket are never ideal, there will be a position through a full crank's rotation when the chain is the most tight, and a position where it is the most loose. It is recommended to find the tightest spot and tune the chain tension to be just right in it. Then, just in case, you can find the loosest spot and make sure the chain won't hop off the teeth if shaken in the second position.
Overtightening a chain would not give performance benefits while simultaneously it would start pressing both chain and chainring excessively, not benefiting their wear life.
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
If it is not the rear wheel axle sliding forward because of a low torque on its axles or because of bad nut design/quality, then it is the chain. You would have noticed the axle sliding because the rear wheel would become misaligned in the rear dropouts and the tire would start rubbing one of the rear chainstays.
It is possible that a chain of poor quality would wear faster than desired, effectively "stretching" itself and thus becoming loose on the drivetrain's teeth over time. I've read reports that so called half-link chains used in BMX are quite prone to it. Try using a better, possibly more expensive chain.
Again, if the chain seems "loose" to your taste but you cannot throw it off the drivetrain's teeth by hand, it is unlikely it will come off during riding. In that case, let it be for a while.
And again, do not forget about regular maintenance of the chain, that is, replacing it after it has worn and become longer by 0.75% of its original length.
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
up vote
4
down vote
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
That is mostly correct. Given that the circularity of the chainring, bearings and rear sprocket are never ideal, there will be a position through a full crank's rotation when the chain is the most tight, and a position where it is the most loose. It is recommended to find the tightest spot and tune the chain tension to be just right in it. Then, just in case, you can find the loosest spot and make sure the chain won't hop off the teeth if shaken in the second position.
Overtightening a chain would not give performance benefits while simultaneously it would start pressing both chain and chainring excessively, not benefiting their wear life.
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
If it is not the rear wheel axle sliding forward because of a low torque on its axles or because of bad nut design/quality, then it is the chain. You would have noticed the axle sliding because the rear wheel would become misaligned in the rear dropouts and the tire would start rubbing one of the rear chainstays.
It is possible that a chain of poor quality would wear faster than desired, effectively "stretching" itself and thus becoming loose on the drivetrain's teeth over time. I've read reports that so called half-link chains used in BMX are quite prone to it. Try using a better, possibly more expensive chain.
Again, if the chain seems "loose" to your taste but you cannot throw it off the drivetrain's teeth by hand, it is unlikely it will come off during riding. In that case, let it be for a while.
And again, do not forget about regular maintenance of the chain, that is, replacing it after it has worn and become longer by 0.75% of its original length.
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
Is it correct that with fixie you shouldn't keep the chain too tight because it can ruin the drivetrain?
That is mostly correct. Given that the circularity of the chainring, bearings and rear sprocket are never ideal, there will be a position through a full crank's rotation when the chain is the most tight, and a position where it is the most loose. It is recommended to find the tightest spot and tune the chain tension to be just right in it. Then, just in case, you can find the loosest spot and make sure the chain won't hop off the teeth if shaken in the second position.
Overtightening a chain would not give performance benefits while simultaneously it would start pressing both chain and chainring excessively, not benefiting their wear life.
Is it normal that I have to tighten the chain probably at least once a month because it gets too loose with casual riding, no more than a 100 miles per week?
If it is not the rear wheel axle sliding forward because of a low torque on its axles or because of bad nut design/quality, then it is the chain. You would have noticed the axle sliding because the rear wheel would become misaligned in the rear dropouts and the tire would start rubbing one of the rear chainstays.
It is possible that a chain of poor quality would wear faster than desired, effectively "stretching" itself and thus becoming loose on the drivetrain's teeth over time. I've read reports that so called half-link chains used in BMX are quite prone to it. Try using a better, possibly more expensive chain.
Again, if the chain seems "loose" to your taste but you cannot throw it off the drivetrain's teeth by hand, it is unlikely it will come off during riding. In that case, let it be for a while.
And again, do not forget about regular maintenance of the chain, that is, replacing it after it has worn and become longer by 0.75% of its original length.
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
edited 2 days ago
Swifty
2,031220
2,031220
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
answered 2 days ago
Grigory Rechistov
3,454727
3,454727
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
3
3
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
You might want to use a measuring tool for the chain, they're quite cheap and they will tell you whether your chain hasn't lengthened too much. Especially if you say that you've been riding it for years at 100mi / week which is quite a lot.
– Carel
2 days ago
1
1
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
Chains don't lengthen in a linear manner because the applied force isn't linear. With derailleur chains stress is randomly distributed than with fixie chains. If you use a measuring tool you should always test the chain at several spots.
– Carel
2 days ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The rear wheel should not simply be pulled back so that the chain is taught. Doing so would accelerate wear.
When properly tensioned you should be able to move the chain about 12mm (0.5 inch) up or down about halfway between sprocket and chainring.
To rule out wheel movement, you could invest in a set of chain tensioners that fit in the dropouts. These will also make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.
As usual, Park Took has a great video on single speed chain replacement and tensioning:
.
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
The rear wheel should not simply be pulled back so that the chain is taught. Doing so would accelerate wear.
When properly tensioned you should be able to move the chain about 12mm (0.5 inch) up or down about halfway between sprocket and chainring.
To rule out wheel movement, you could invest in a set of chain tensioners that fit in the dropouts. These will also make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.
As usual, Park Took has a great video on single speed chain replacement and tensioning:
.
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
The rear wheel should not simply be pulled back so that the chain is taught. Doing so would accelerate wear.
When properly tensioned you should be able to move the chain about 12mm (0.5 inch) up or down about halfway between sprocket and chainring.
To rule out wheel movement, you could invest in a set of chain tensioners that fit in the dropouts. These will also make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.
As usual, Park Took has a great video on single speed chain replacement and tensioning:
.
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
The rear wheel should not simply be pulled back so that the chain is taught. Doing so would accelerate wear.
When properly tensioned you should be able to move the chain about 12mm (0.5 inch) up or down about halfway between sprocket and chainring.
To rule out wheel movement, you could invest in a set of chain tensioners that fit in the dropouts. These will also make setting chain tension and wheel alignment easier.
As usual, Park Took has a great video on single speed chain replacement and tensioning:
.
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
answered 2 days ago
Argenti Apparatus
24.4k12664
24.4k12664
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Other answers have already covered the part about why chain should not be too tight, so I will answer only about chain wearing.
It is not normal, but not completely unheard of. The worst singlespeed chain I have had wore out in about 1000 km and had to be tightened halfway during long rides. It was marketed as rust proof, I guess the idea is that the chain would wear out before it had time to rust. It was not because the wheel was moving in dropouts, and switching to a different brand solved the problem.
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
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up vote
1
down vote
Other answers have already covered the part about why chain should not be too tight, so I will answer only about chain wearing.
It is not normal, but not completely unheard of. The worst singlespeed chain I have had wore out in about 1000 km and had to be tightened halfway during long rides. It was marketed as rust proof, I guess the idea is that the chain would wear out before it had time to rust. It was not because the wheel was moving in dropouts, and switching to a different brand solved the problem.
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
Other answers have already covered the part about why chain should not be too tight, so I will answer only about chain wearing.
It is not normal, but not completely unheard of. The worst singlespeed chain I have had wore out in about 1000 km and had to be tightened halfway during long rides. It was marketed as rust proof, I guess the idea is that the chain would wear out before it had time to rust. It was not because the wheel was moving in dropouts, and switching to a different brand solved the problem.
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
Other answers have already covered the part about why chain should not be too tight, so I will answer only about chain wearing.
It is not normal, but not completely unheard of. The worst singlespeed chain I have had wore out in about 1000 km and had to be tightened halfway during long rides. It was marketed as rust proof, I guess the idea is that the chain would wear out before it had time to rust. It was not because the wheel was moving in dropouts, and switching to a different brand solved the problem.
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
answered 2 days ago
ojs
10.5k21937
10.5k21937
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
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I'm pretty sure you don't mean "latency" (that refers to a time delay) but I cant' think of the right word, right now! I know what you mean, anyway.
– David Richerby
2 days ago
2
I think you simple mean 'slack'
– Argenti Apparatus
2 days ago
@DavidRicherby people say 'pick up' referring to the engagement of freewheel cogs. But even that doesn't seem right for a fixed gear, it comes from the slack as mentioned by Argenti. I like latency, it is a kind of delay and like you I understood the meaning in the context
– Swifty
2 days ago